I am very excited to show you the Fundamental Eye brushes today. 5 months after the launch of the Fundamental Face Brushes, they are finally here!
Just like the face brushes, the eye brushes were manufactured in Kumano, Japan, and assembled on matte black brass ferrules, with walnut wood handles.
You can either continue reading or jump to a particular section by clicking on the titles below. Also, throughout this post, you can click on the smaller pictures to see them in a larger size.
ABOUT THE HANDLES
For this Fundamental series relaunch, I wanted to work with the finest wood available to us, walnut wood is regarded to be as one of the most valuable woods in the world. We often see it in luxurious furniture and joinery, the artisans love its characteristics, elegance, hue, grain – it can be striped, wavy, create interesting patterns – especially when it’s cut at an angle or with a particular curve like we did here for these handles.
The artisan who worked on these handles sees beauty and elegance in minimalism. He aims to showcase the wood, the feel and aesthetics of the grain while following manufacturing processes that incorporate traditional tools and techniques – one of which is the use of tonoko powder.
The way the finished wood feels to the touch is very distinctive of his work. It represents quality and woodworking craftsmanship at its finest.
The length of the handles is the same as the current PRO, Fusion, Sky or Traditions series.
Although the shape looks similar, it is actually slightly different.
Walnut is a softer wood in comparison to the cherry blossom or maple wood used on these lacquered handles. In order to make them as durable, we had to increase the thickness of the walnut handles, and we then modified their design to give the brushes a good balance and interesting aesthetics.
The handles can look very different from each other because the colour of walnut wood is different from one timber to the other. Also, the grain is so rich that it makes each handle a one-of-a-kind piece, but these features made the application of the logos and names more tricky:
– A laser application was not consistent when paired with the craftmanship techniques used to perfect the handles.
– Printing the logos with a lighter shade like the one used on the Sky or Pro handles was not looking good and very often totally invisible on these handles.
– Using a more contrasting colour was disrupting the aesthetics of the wood.
At the end, a black logo approach was the most appropriate for these handles and also, the wood is nicely preserved.
The handles went through so many steps and artisan hands. I wrote an article for the Beautylish editorial section a few months ago where all these steps are listed and explained. If you have not seen it and are interested, I link it below.
The materials and the craftsmanship are important as they make these handles valuable and luxurious, but I wish that you could see the diligence and the passion that the artisans put into crafting these pieces. I spend a lot of time with them, in their ateliers and outside when I can go to Japan, and I can assure you that they give everything and more. This is what truly makes these brushes so valuable.
ABOUT THE BRUSHES
The new Fundamental eye brushes will be available on Beautylish starting on November 14th, 2023, both as a set and individually.
These series feature 8 eye brushes: 4 were released previously with the thicker black-to-red lacquered handles, and 4 are new designs. The main idea was to bring back some of the most missed discontinued brushes. Alongside these, I’ve created 4 new brushes to complement their functionality and that fill a gap in the Fude world today.
ex – Pencil Two
ex – Builder Three
ex – Worker Three
ex – Worker Two
The 4 brushes that we are bringing back are the previous Pencil Two, Builder Three, Worker Three and Worker Two.
This is a picture of the brushes together, with their previous handle and with the new one. The ferrule and handle have changed but the brush remains the same. Their shape may look slightly different in the picture because all brushes -even from the same batch- may differ in some way. The reasons are that all natural bristles have a different thickness and structure, and also the grade of saikoho has changed since their first launch 6 years ago.
By the way, the brushes on the pictures are my own brushes that I have been using since the beginning. I make sure they are washed for the pictures but they may have marks or even stickers attached with notes.
This little Pencil S brush is a new design. It’s bundled with very soft and silky 100% natural goat bristles. Even though the brush is firm, the softness of the bristles makes the brush very pleasant to use.
It’s a very small pencil brush with a round ferrule that is curved at the top, next to the base of the bristles. This gives more tightness to the brush and increases the control we have with the tip. It’s firm, but not stiff, the top half of the brush has movement.
Since it’s quite short and firm at the base, with some products the best way is to proceed with short strokes and move along the lash line, it will progressively deposit and blend the product.
Its purpose is to place and work shadows or pencils very close to the lash line.
With the Pencil S, we can use any powder shadow and obtain an almost pencil-like result, but softer (more diffused) in comparison to what we would obtain with a pencil application. It makes the application more effortless when we aim for even and neat definition, but don’t want the hardness of a pencil.
The Pencil S will be wonderful to even out and facilitate the application of a pencil along the lash line. It offers more control so that we can precisely smudge or blend to the desired length and thickness without harsh uneven edges.
More details about the Pencil S
I used to apply liquid eyeliner every single day. I still do but only occasionally as it has become more challenging on my lids. The Pencil S is my plan B, it’s easier, it’s fast, and still delivers fun and boldness.
Another reason why I love this brush and why I believe that it has so much potential, is because of its tip: even though it’s tiny, it has body and strength. Often, tiny pencils don’t have enough thickness and strength at the tip, they are either too floppy, too thin or too rough. This balance of softness with firmness allows so many possibilities.
For example, we can use bold-shimmery shadows with a subtle and strategic approach. I don’t often go for the super intense look, but I want to have fun and play every single day. With the tip of the Pencil S, I can add a little accent in the centre of the bottom lash line, or on the outer corner, or precisely along the lashes, it allows me to use statement shadows in a way that suits my lifestyle and my preferences.
Another example is to use this Pencil S to apply and diffuse an eyeliner pencil application, some pencils can be difficult to blend out evenly and precisely. One of the easiest ways to achieve an even application of eyeliner pencil on the bottom lash line, is to apply some pencil only where we want the darkest placement to be, then take a clean Pencil S and blend the product to cover the remaining length of the lash line, go as far as you want to go. This technique allows a little more intensity on the outside, gradually softening and disappearing towards the inner lash line which is what I aim for, most of the time.
I was really craving a brush with these abilities, strategic and effortless and I hope that you love it, and use it, as much as I do.
The Pencil S is much smaller than the Pencil Pro, about 3 times smaller in comparison.
They are very different brushes, the Pencil S is going to work very closely and neatly along the lash line, while the Pencil L works more as a smudger or outer v type of brush.
This Pencil L is the same brush as the previous Pencil Two. It’s bundled with very soft goat, 100% natural bristles, same softness and quality as before. The bristles are firm, but they are flexible and very soft, they feel like the saikoho from years ago.
This big Pencil brush has a round ferrule and very soft bristles, it’s firm but the tip flows smoothly as it moves onto the skin. Many brushes with this size and firmness have a tip or a body that is too firm or that moves too unpredictably – their tip tends to flick from side to side instead and somehow it feels like we are not really in control when this happens.
This Pencil L has just the right flexibility and movement in the bristles, it’s easier to manoeuvre and we know what is happening, and where.
It can be used as a big pencil brush, or a laydown brush, or a smudger brush, or to precisely work in the crease area. I use it for so many tasks. For me, this is the ideal outer v brush and it’s always, always, within reach.
More about the Pencil L
I regularly work with shadows that are made in Japan -they are often very silky and subtle in pigmentation, even the darker ones. A brush like this Pencil L allows me to pack them on the outer v and diffuse them precisely using very small circular motions, it’s super fast and effective. Since I don’t have a lot of space to work with, I can intensify the placement or blend exactly where I need to.
I have always been drawn to this type of brushes with this shape and size, but even when the brushes had a fantastic shape and construction, on my sensitive skin, they felt rough and pokey. A very targeted selection of bristles for this size of brush is very important, not only will the brush be more pleasant to use, but their structure and quality will determine how the brush works and moves.
The other similar brush in the collection is the Pencil Pro, but it’s smaller and firmer so it’s doesn’t have the same movement or purpose as the Pencil L.
The Pencil Two is the exact same brush, even though it looks a bit different in the picture.
This little Builder S brush is a new design. It’s 100% soft natural goat bristles. The bristles are a combination of white and brown dyed bristles. They feel similar to the saikoho bristles from years ago, however, the brush is quite firm so with this construction and layering, the bristles may feel less soft, even though they are very soft.
It is narrow, it has a pinched ferrule, but the brush has a substantial thickness sideways. This thickness at the base supports the brush and gives it more strength to build a product.
This thickness is giving the tip of the brush a lot of stability, meaning that it will also double as a very effective pencil brush.
It’s narrow and quite long, fantastic to use on the entire mobile lid or just on the outer corner, and it’s amazing on the smallest lids. It’s small enough to place a shadow in the inner part of the mobile lid without overlapping, very useful for example in the case of a halo look.
For gradients, pops of shimmer or definition, it can be used at any moment of the make-up application because it’s so strategic with the placement.
More about the Builder S
It’s a brush that I don’t see myself without today. I have hooded eyes, I love to use bold shimmer or foil type of shadows, but I’d rather go for a targeted placement, an application on a small area.
Make-up is so much fun, I am definitely going to stop by my vanity for a tiny break once or twice a day if I am home and if I can. Either to try a new shadow, or to change my look into something more bold. This Builder S is ideal because of the long shape, I can use it vertically or horizontally and navigate along the mobile lash line, avoiding the lashes and precisely placing the shadow. This is what is so amazing with this little brush, the potential to quickly tune a look with precision.
The Flat Definer is shorter, thinner, it doesn’t have a large surface like the Builder S has. If you wished for the Flat Definer to have more length and thickness, the little Builder S is going to be perfect.
The S1 next to the Builder S, just in case you have this brush from the Holiday release. The S1 is much smaller and thinner in comparison.
This Builder M brush is exactly the same brush as the previous Builder Three, just with a different handle. It’s 100% natural bristles, soft goat that feels like the saikoho grade in the previous version. The bristles are dyed brown.
It has a pinched ferrule, a square-ish shape to work with a similar strength across the flat surface.
It’s dense and has amazing grip on the products whilst being super soft on the skin.
It looks similar to a typical shader brush, but it’s on the thicker side. The width at the base and this tapered shape give the tip of the brush a lot of stability, this adds functionality either as a smudger, or to add definition along the lash line.
This Builder M is a stunning workhorse, if you are interested in my brushes (thank you!) and don’t know where to start, start with this Builder M, a good reliable laydown brush is always a brush we are happy to use on repeat or to gift, and this one feels amazing on sensitive skin.
This Builder M packs on all types of powder shadows, matte, shimmer or metallic formulas, and since the tip is thick and stable, we can use it to also define and smudge along the lash line.
More about the Builder M
This brush is probably the most fundamental brush of the set, it had to come back again, and stay. It’s probably the most used in my collection and I am relieved that we were able to bring it back with the same quality bristles. I know that many of you were waiting for it to be back, so this is a very happy moment for me, I hope for you too!
You may already be familiar with the Builder M since it was previously the Builder Three.
The Builder Pro is more elongated, you can have more precision with the placement but with the Builder M, the application is more intense.
The Builder M has more thickness in comparison to the Mac 239. I have several Mac 239 brushes, you can see here the difference, this is just to show you that within the same brush and with the same measurements, the bristles can give a totally different shape to a brush. If you own the Mac 239, here are two examples of how it can compare to the Builder M: it’s in between a flat one and a totally puffed one.
The Worker S is the same as the previous Worker Three, exactly the same brush, just with a different handle. It’s 100% natural white goat bristles that feel like the previous saikoho grade, with a similar softness as the previous version.
In the previous Fundamental series we had a Worker Two and a Worker Three : the Worker Two was a best seller, many customers loved it and wished for a smaller version of it, which is why the Worker Three joined the series later.
This Worker S has a pinched ferrule with substantial thickness at the bottom. This thickness, shape and density give the brush the ability to work as a laydown, crease and blending brush, it has strength and precision at the tip.
It has more density in comparison to a typical crease brush but this is very useful when we want to work with tougher formulas in the crease area, or blend them with more precision.
The Workers are very fun brushes to use, they are versatile and there is always a task we can assign to them: laydown, crease, blending, even cream shadows.
I think that today, the size, density and strength of this Worker S is even more relevant, it pairs very well with many new formulas in the market – some newer formulas look incredibly gorgeous but they tend to be quite difficult to build, especially if they are close to our skin tone, for that reason this brush is extremely helpful as it can handle them easily.
More about the Worker S
I have always been mad in love with crease brushes, endlessly tempted to get all the nice crease brushes that I could find!
When I was looking for crease brushes that had more density, more strength to work with sheer shades, I often encountered issues with their softness. I have extremely sensitive skin so this may not apply to all of you, but when I could find brushes that were awesome and effective, they were often too rough and pokey.
This Worker S was designed for those of us who require both softness and strength at the same time, and who may be looking for a precise and strong brush to work in the crease.
The Worker M is the same as the previous Worker Two, it’s exactly the same brush, just with a different handle. It’s 100% natural goat bristles with a similar quality as the previous version.
The Worker M is a bigger version of the Worker S, it has a pinched ferrule and a thick and dense body. It has a slightly curved shape, the bristles are very fine so in spite of its density, it flows very smoothly and it’s very gentle when blending.
It’s a laydown brush quite big and dense, but because the bristles are soft and flexible, it easily adapts in the crease area and blends with more strength in comparison to a Crease L for example.
More about the Worker M
The Worker Two was loved for its versatility, softness and blending power. It’s big but it’s surprisingly easy to manoeuvre, we can use the sides, the tip, or use it at an angle because every single bristle is put to work, they all move smoothly and support each other.
The Worker S and the Worker M side by side, the Worker S is smaller and the tip has more precision in comparison to the Worker M. If you need to place a shadow in the crease, the mobile lid, the outer V area or the upper part of the crease for example, the Worker S is going to manage that more accurately.
The Worker M does not allow to be as precise but on the other hand, it will quicker for all over application or blending.
This Crease M is a new design. It’s 100% natural bristles, it’s soft goat that feels like saikoho.
If you are familiar with my crease brushes – they usually tend to be on the dense side – this Crease M is going to feel more airy in comparison, more wispy. However, the bristles are disciplined and are going to nicely retain their shape.
It has a small round ferrule (5mm) with long bristles (16mm): while it’s going to target the placement on a small area, the application is softly diffused.
The Crease M allows us to work in a small perimeter, with a soft intensity.
For example, when we want to apply a transition shade on the upper crease and we don’t have a lot of space to work with, this brush is going to place the application in a small perimeter while providing a soft diffused result.
It’s small enough to fit neatly in the crease, deepen a shadow, either in the centre or in the outer part of the crease area.
More about the Crease M
Applying -and blending- a shadow in a small perimeter can be quite a challenge, sometimes small crease brushes are too dense and they pack or blend with too much intensity, other times they are too floppy and a bit too unpredictable. This is where this brush comes in handy. What I love so much about his Crease M, is that we can build softly, gradually, just where it’s needed and we can concentrate the intensity exactly where we want it.
Just like when I play with the Builder S, this Crease M allows me to tune and adjust a look during the day, add intensity in the crease, or on the outer crease or easily adapt a transition shade for example. Since this brush allows for a strategic application and blending, I can easily work with it without interfering with whatever else is applied on my lids.
The Crease Pro has the same purpose as the Crease M, but it’s more tapered and firmer, it’s going to be bolder with the placement and it’s not as soft and wispy.
The Mini Booster is much shorter, firmer and determined with the placement and the blending.
Crease and blending nuances
Several of these brushes can do placement or blending in the crease area, but they are all different in size, in shape or density, they will offer a different experience and result.
- The Pencil L is firm and can place a shadow with more precision and intensity in comparison to the others in the picture below. Even though it’s not a crease brush, it can build intensity with shadows that are more stubborn, or for example more precisely diffuse the outer corner/crease application.
- The Worker S is more precise and powerful in comparison to the Crease M, if you want to work with a shadow that is on the sheer side or that doesn’t build easily, the Worker S is going to be extremely helpful for that purpose and place it nicely along the crease.
- The Crease M allows you to build the application more softly in comparison to the Worker S. If you need strength and more precision then prefer the Worker S. If you want to build the application more gradually, then the Crease M is going to be more appropriate for the task.
- The Worker M is going to work with more precision and strength in comparison to the Crease L.
- The Crease L is more airy in comparison to the Worker M, allowing a more gradual application and a more gentle blending.
Bottom line, if the formulas are on the harder or on the sheer side, the Workers will do a better job at picking up the product and will have more determination with the blending.
This Crease L brush is a new design, it’s almost like the previous Crease Two but with a little difference that I will explain further down in the comparisons. It’s 100% natural goat bristles. It feels soft (softer than the previous Crease Two) but to maintain this shape and firmness, the bristles have some strength and thickness.
The Crease L has a round ferrule, the edge of the ferrule at the base of the bristles is curved and the shape of the brush tapers softly.
It has airiness, but the bristles have some firmness within, this is for the tip of the brush to allow precision and consistency in the movement, and for the bristles to not splay out too much when working.
The Crease L is a brush we can use for all-over base application, to work in the crease, and for blending.
It can be used in windshield wiper motions or in circular motions; this shape and firmness allows the brush to fit in the crease, target the blending with enough precision but without moving the skin or being too aggressive.
More about the Crease L
It’s airy but has density, it’s firm but has movement, it’s big but allows precision, it’s kind of an in-betweener, probably one that could best carry the label of being a fundamental brush, an essential that often has a solid role in our eye make-up routine.
I have a weakness for this type of brushes, not only because of what they do, but they make me feel very nostalgic -more about this feeling further down below. They remind me of the times when I started playing with brushes, I remember my joy every time I found a great crease brush, and I did get a few! Chances are, if you have been playing with brushes for a while, you may also feel nostalgic at times.
The Crease L is very similar to the previous Crease Two launched with the first Fundamental set, but this Crease L is less dense, has more movement and splays out more in comparison. The Crease Two was firmer in comparison.
The Classic Crease is more airy, not as firm and not as tapered in comparison to the Crease L.
The Blender Pro is larger. To differentiate it from the Crease L, I would say that the strength on the Blender Pro is more diffused across its surface, while with the Crease L, the strength is more concentrated towards the tip. The Crease L offers a bit more control with the placement and the blending.
I love them all. Even though they may all look alike, they are all very different for me, not that we need all of them, but there are nuances that will have an effect on their precision, their softness, and their strength.
Crease L versus the Tom Ford 13 and the Paula Dorf Sheer Crease
This is exactly where I get nostalgic, if you have been loving brushes for a long time, these brushes here may ring a bell.
Let’s start with the Paula Dorf Sheer Crease brush, mine may be 14 years old depending on the batch it came from. I used to have more of them, I have 3 of them today and they are all a bit different from each other, some are softer, some are firmer, some are more tapered, but they are all pretty awesome. My favorite is my oldest, the one with a more firm tip, while it delivers a diffused placement, it allows a bit more control with the tip; this is what I really love about this brush and what I was looking for to achieve with the Crease L.
The Paula Dorf Sheer Crease is discontinued as far as I know but this brush was such a hit with so many of us. What made it so special? It was the density, the control, the slight tapered shape, and also at some point the fact that it was impossible to get our hands on it.
With the Crease L, I wanted to achieve a similar functionality without copying the brush, it’s pretty close although the Crease L differs in materials, specs, ferrule shape, and components.
To obtain this behaviour and strength, we need to add some particular bristles that open the sides a bit, the brush is soft but it may not feel crazy silky velvety soft. What I can say is that the Crease L is softer than all my Paula Dorf Sheer Crease brushes, and also softer than my Tom Ford 13 brushes bundled with natural bristles.
By the way, the TF 13 (natural) is denser in comparison to the Crease L and the tip is more rounded – the TF is closer in shape and behaviour to the Blender Pro.
THE TECHNICAL SPECS
These brushes were designed for the use of powder products, but they can all be used also with creams or liquids. However, when the brush is not firm enough for the purpose of blending creams (like Crease M or Crease L), using excessive pressure on a brush can damage the bristles, break them and cause shedding.
I think that it’s better to reserve 100% natural brushes for the use of powders -unless it’s for occasional use of creams. These bristles are very fine and more delicate in comparison to synthetic brushes, or brushes with a synthetic mix.
About the grade of these natural goat bristles
These bristles have been selected aiming for the feel of soft saikoho grade, but saikoho grade has changed and techniques have changed. Whatever criteria defined “saikoho” in the past, it’s not the same criteria today, so it’s not always accurate to call the bristles saikoho grade, even though they feel like saikoho.
You may have also noticed that several Fude manufacturers removed the grade category of the bristles and simply write “goat”, so it’s difficult for a customer, who has the knowledge of the different types of grades, to know what softness to expect, and there are so many grades of softness in goat bristles!
With that in mind, I have tried to describe the softness for every brush so that you can have a better idea of what to expect.
Please keep in mind that saikoho grade bristles have changed a lot in the recent years and every batch, even the same brush within the same batch, can have a slightly different feel as natural bristles are not machine made, hence not identical.
I have extremely sensitive skin so I am working with the best artisans, selecting the best bristles available to fit the purpose of the brush while keeping softness the highest priority.
Table of specs and prices
|||Total length mm||Ferrule mm|
|Bristles length mm||Material||Price in USD|
|Pencil S||148||5 (curved)||6.5||White goat bristles||28|
|Pencil L||151||8||11||White goat bristles||30|
|Builder S||150||7.5*4||10||Dyed brown/white goat bristles||30|
|Builder M||150||10*5||10||Dyed brown goat bristles||32|
|Worker S||154||9*6||14||White goat bristles||32|
|Worker M||160||10*7||15||White goat bristles||36|
|Crease M||156||5||16||White goat bristles||30|
|Crease L||158||7 (curved)||18||White goat bristles||34|
These new Fundamental Eye brushes will be available starting on the 14th of November at 10am PT on Beautylish.com. They will be available as a set and also individually. They are joining the permanent series and we will produce them for as long as there is interest and that the materials remain available to the manufacturers.
Thank you so much for reading, I hope that I shared enough details and that these descriptions were useful, if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch with me in the comments !