by Sonia G.

The first Fundamental series were released in December 2017, they have been discontinued for a while now but new Fundamentals series will be available starting on the 18th of July 2023. These new series are a selection of previously released brushes paired with some new designs. The eye brushes are still in production but the face brushes are ready!

The handles used on the first Fundamentals were lacquered black to red, they had the Sonia G logo symbol at the bottom and they were thicker and heavier in comparison to the more recent collections- the PRO and SKY series.

As we carried on our Fude journey and brought other collections, we discontinued this very first release.

Some of these previous designs had to be discontinued because we could not get the same materials with the same quality anymore. Others were discontinued because as we launched other series, the functionality of some brushes was somehow duplicated and we were not able to justify keeping the production for all of them.

I loved the first thicker handles, they were quite a statement in terms of size and look, although I know they were not the easiest to carry around.
When these handles were designed, I was either going for a design with a black to red gradation or, the other option that I loved was to use a luxurious wood and leave the handles unlacquered. I loved both but I thought the red to black was the most intriguing option because of the lacquers used, the complexity in the coating methods and how much work those handles actually required!

Time has passed since that first release and since then, we have been working with luxurious wood materials like yakusugi, keyaki, and hinoki for the handles. We also used walnut wood for the Brush Holder, it’s out of stock at the moment but currently in production and should be back in a couple of months.
Today, I recognise how much work and craftsmanship has been put in all the handles, and, while this is very important, the aesthetics and ergonomics may be the main reasons to steer us towards one or the other.

I have received a lot of messages asking me to bring the original Fundamental brushes back in stock, and this was the opportunity for me to finally use walnut wood for the handles and showcase precious Japanese craftsmanship techniques that we have incorporated in the process.

So, almost 6 years later, we are bringing back a selection of the very first Fundamentals paired with these new walnut handles. We have reduced the number of brushes in these 2 series to 6 face brushes and 8 eye brushes. Today we are ready to dive into the face set, it will launch both as a set and as individuals!

This is going to be a very long post; you can continue reading or click on a title below to jump to that section directly!


The first Fundamentals (now all discontinued) had maple wood handles and were lacquered black to red. These new handles are made from walnut and are unlacquered, you can see the grain and feel the wood.

If you are familiar with the previous handles, these new handles are thinner and lighter. Take the Fan L brush (ex-Sculpt One), the previous version was 39g, today the same brush with the walnut handle is 29g. The brush is not as heavy but still feels substantial, they have different aesthetics both in finish and shape.

The shape is a bit similar to the PRO and SKY series, but we had to redesign all the handles according to this new material we were using. This is to make sure they were durable as walnut is a more delicate wood.

Each walnut handle is different in hue, some will be lighter, some darker and the pattern of the grain is unique to each piece.

The sloping silhouette of the handles accentuates the details of the wood grain, there is going to be more complexity in the grain in comparison to a straight handle crafted with the same wood.

When I saw them for the first time, I was speechless, I kept looking at the grain again and again. I was surprised and overwhelmed with emotions and I still feel the same way today!

Just like with the Keyaki handles (the Mini and the Traditions), we used Tonoko powder to perfect each handle.

Tonoko is a polishing powder made from finely powdered stone, it’s not only a traditional process that some artisans use, but it’s good to know that is has many benefits: Not only does it accentuate the grain of the walnut wood, it also mitigates the risk of shrinking and strengthens the wood.

There are several other steps involved in the making, if you love wood and Japanese craftsmanship, please stay tuned as I will be sharing all the steps of the making of the walnut handles in an editorial article that will be published very soon on the Beautylish website.

The process is extremely long and when we see all the work behind the scenes, it helps to better understand their cost and the reasons why they take so long to make.

I was able to specifically write about this process since I have a privileged relationship with both the brush and the handle manufacturer (normally companies will only be able to talk to the brush manufacturer since handle sourcing is a “behind the scenes”, confidential process).


We tried different techniques to apply the logo and labels, but engraving was not giving consistent results. We cannot risk damaging the wood on such expensive handles, so we decided to go with printing. Printing on such handles is tricky too, but it was the best option.

Beautiful handles such as these should showcase the grain, and the logo or labels should remain discrete so that you can appreciate the details and patterns of the walnut grain.

When holding or looking at the handles, what you will see first is the wood grain, the details, and each unique pattern.

The logos and labels are there if you need them, but the writing won’t disrupt the aesthetics of the wood grain.


This new Fundamental face set comes with 6 brushes:
– 4 are re-editions brought back from the original Fundamentals, they are exactly the same brush but with a different handle.
– 1 is a re-edition from the discontinued mini Keyaki set, the Classic Face. It was renamed to Classic Cheek though. It’s the same brush, but with this walnut handle instead of the keyaki mini handle.
– 1 is a new design that was never released, the Worker L.

4 re-editions from the original Fundamentals
With the Classic Cheek and the new Worker L

The brushes in this Fundamental set offer a good balance in terms of fun and functionality: they are able to take care of essential tasks in a make-up application, effortlessly and quickly, but they are also capable of taking into account extra needs we may need to cover – like handling difficult products or achieving a particular placement. If you are a brush lover and collector, I hope that some of these have the potential to fill a gap in your collection!

Fan L – Worker L – Fan M – Classic Cheek – Soft Buffer – Fan A


Total length mmFerrule mm Bristles length mmMaterialPrice in USD
Fan L18022×1535Hakutotsuho goat85
Fan M16718×1227Dyed Saikoho goat65
Fan A16318×1223White Saikoho goat65
Classic Cheek17314×1133Dyed/white Saikoho goat55
Soft Buffer1711431White Saikoho goat60
Worker L169924Dyed Saikoho goat35


This table will give you an idea on how these brushes compare to each other in terms of airiness, softness, firmness, and density. For example, the Fan A is denser and firmer in comparison to the Fan M, Fan L is more airy in comparison to Fan M or A.


Fan Lxxxxx
Fan Mxxxxxx
Fan Axxxx
Classic Cheekxxxxxx
Soft Bufferxxxxx
Worker Lxxx

This table is just to give you an example of the tasks they can achieve but the result depends on the product used, the precision and the opacity that you are aiming for. I will talk in detail about the functionality of each brush further down in this post.


When we started working on these walnut handles, I was going to pick only a very small selection for the brushes. However, during the past two years, I have received so many messages about the Sculpt One, the Sculpt Two and the Sculpt Four, that it really made sense to bring these 3 fans back.

It has been a while since the first release of the Fundamentals in 2017, with time we mastered new Fude techniques, obtained new materials and we created new collections. It’s normal that some brushes evolve with time or get discontinued, but these three fans are still very much loved today, just the way they are.
They are brought back with the same specs, just with a different ferrule and handle.

Sculpt One – Fan L
Sculpt Two – Fan M
Sculpt Four – Fan A
Face One – Buffer Pro

The Face One was part of the First Fundamentals, this was a key brush and the one that I was the most excited about when I started to create my own designs.
We struggled to bring it back in stock at the beginning, this was due to the lack of availability of such long bristles with the same quality and softness.
We had to find a way to always keep this brush in the collection with the same bristles! We were able to find a new manufacturer and we moved this brush to the PRO series in order to keep it permanent. We renamed it the Buffer Pro and by the way, it’s going to be available again at the same time that these New Fundamentals are released (on the 18th of July).

Face Two – Soft Buffer

The Face Two is the exact same brush as before, with the same quality of bristles just with a different ferrule and handle, and it has been renamed as the Soft Buffer.

Base One – Sheer Buffer

The Base One has been discontinued. We created a new stippling brush that covers its functionality: the Fusion Sheer Buffer.

Sculpt Three – Fan Pro

The Sculpt Three is not re-released but if you love this shape, the Fan Pro is the same fan, with undyed saikoho goat bristles.

A short summary:

Base OneDiscontinued, please check the Fusion Sheer Buffer instead
Sculpt OneRe-released in these New Fundamentals, renamed as Fan L
Sculpt TwoRe-released in these New Fundamentals, renamed as Fan M
Sculpt ThreeDiscontinued (please check the Fan Pro instead, same shape with different bristles)
Sculpt FourRe-released in these New Fundamentals, renamed as Fan A
Face OneMoved to the Pro Series and renamed as the Buffer Pro
Face TwoRe-released in these New Fundamentals, renamed as the Soft Buffer


I love fan brushes, specially since I discovered Japanese handmade fan brushes. They really stand out thanks to the amazing quality of the bristles and the consistency of the bundling, they can be considered reliable and powerful tools.

Handmade fan brushes are some of the most difficult brushes for the artisans to make, and they are also very expensive to produce.

This is mostly due to the time the artisans need to spend on each fan brush and to the higher cost of these particular ferrules.

There are 3 fan brushes in these Fundamentals, they are very soft and very dense. Instead of working like wispy fans and applying a product lightly, they work with determination and have lots of strength to diffuse and buff a product. I will share more details about each one of them further down below but I wanted to show you some pics side by side to give you a better idea of their shape and size.



Sideways, we can compare their thickness and see their curved surface at the top.

The FAN A is the softest, but the bristles are shorter, it has less flexibility in comparison to the other two fans.


The big fluffy FAN L is 3 or 4 times bigger in comparison to the other two fans.


The FAN L is a very large face brush but since it’s curved, if we use it perpendicularly, we can adjust the pressure to increase or reduce the surface that is in contact with the skin.

With a 90° angle and medium pressure, the surface that is in contact with the skin is going to be +/- 5cm x 2cm, using more pressure will increase it, and less pressure with keep the product and the buffing on a smaller area, +/- 4cm x 1.5cm.

I use this brush mostly for bronzer because it navigates easily around the face and delivers very natural diffused results.
With blush it may seem too large for the task, but it depends on how you want the product to be diffused. If you are aiming for a horizontal technique, using this brush at a 90° angle will deliver a natural elongated application.

I use it regularly for sculpting, sculpting does a lot for me and I always include this step in my makeup routine one way or the other! If I work with powder products, this Fan L helps me to achieve an application quick and easy!
I occasionally use it with highlighter but paired with products that are on the matte side or with a subtle radiant finish (not sparkly or metallic finishes as it would be quite a wide area being covered). I would not recommend this Fan L if you are looking for a precise application.
The brush is versatile but it depends how precise you want the application to be.

The FAN L has been bundled with hakutotsuho goat bristles, these are thicker bristles in comparison to the saikoho bristles used for the Fan A or for the Soft Buffer, but the thicker bristles were a necessity for the functionality of this FAN L brush. If we make this large fan with finer saikoho goat bristles 1) the brush won’t fluff out as nicely and 2) it will lack strength for the intended purpose, we would be tempted to use more pressure while excessive pressure on long bristles is not a good thing for the durability of the brush.

Main purpose: Bronzer, Powder, Sculpting, Finishing (blending or buffing the final application).
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Blush, Highlight, Setting


The surface at the top is +/- 4.5cm long x 1.6 cm wide, however, using light pressure, the contact surface is reduced to +/- 3.4cm x 1.2cm.

The products that triggered the design of this fan brush were blushes and powders that I discovered and loved, but they were quite sheer or not very saturated. Their application was time consuming and I really wanted to be able to use them regularly. At the time I remember having this same discussion with my friends and followers, we were using similar products (RMK, SUQQU, THREE, ADDICTION, IPSA, etc) and sometimes we struggled with the application. I thought that there was a definite need for a brush that could fit on those small rectangular pans and that could effectively pick up the product and work it.

Today there are still many blushes, contours, highlighters that are challenging to apply but they are gorgeous, they just need a tool that can handle them.

Although this was the main reason why this fan brush was initially designed, many enjoyed using it for the application of powders, for polishing and buffing. It can do a very effective buffing in a linear / straight manner, it offers a different experience and more control in comparison to a round or a paddle type of brush.

Since the density is quite high, it was super important that it was as soft as possible, even if you have sensitive skin, this really feels like a cosy cloud.

The FAN M is not the ideal tool for bronzing all over because it’s very dense and quite firm, however, since that brush was launched in the first Fundamentals, so many of you contacted me to tell me how much they loved it for a sculpted bronzer application! Many bronzers are silky and gorgeous but difficult to pick and using this brush helps a lot with the process.

Main purpose: Powder, Highlight, Sculpting, Finishing (blending or buffing the final application), Setting.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Blush, Bronzer


The Fan A is a medium sized Fan brush, with a shorter firmer edge and a longer more supple edge. It’s called Fan A, where the A is meant for angled. This angled shape allows a bit more precision in comparison to the Fan M. It is going to be easier to navigate near the eyes for example, or around the nose or we can also place the product on the shorter edge for more precision, glide the brush and blend with the longer bristles.

Just like with the Fan M, it is going to shine with harder products that need to be paired with a firmer tool. I would not use the Fan A for blush, however, if the blush is like a gelee and difficult to work with, the Fan A is going to do a great job applying and working the product.

The surface at the top is +/- 4cm long x 1.4 cm wide, however, using light pressure the contact surface is +/- 2.7cm x 1.3cm.

Main purpose: Sculpting, Highlight, Finishing (blending or buffing the final application), Setting.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Blush


The other 3 brushes in the New Fundamentals face are:

  • the Classic Cheek, it’s the Classic Face brush that was released in the Mini Keyaki set of 2020
  • the Soft Buffer, exactly the same as the Face Two but with a different ferrule (matte) and with the walnut handle
  • the Worker L, a new design
Classic Cheek – Soft Buffer – Worker L
Classic Cheek – Soft Buffer – Worker L


This is the most classic type of cheek brush, with the highest versatility in terms of size, airiness and density. For example, if you don’t know what brush to start with, or to gift to someone special, this is the one that has the highest potential to be used the most frequently.

The surface at the top is +/- 2.6cmx2 cm, it’s a fluffy brush, there is airiness but it’s not floppy at all. Since it’s between a paddle and a round brush, it can be used in any direction easily and without risks for the structure of the brush.

This Classic Cheek and the Worker L have slightly longer handles (in comparison to the other face brushes in the same set). The handles for these two brushes are thinner, so making them longer gives a more substantial weight to the handle, a better balance.

It’s exactly the same brush as the Classic Face previously released in the Mini Keyaki Set in 2020. I know many of you wished that this brush was released again, so this was the perfect opportunity and it teams really well with the other brushes in the set.

Main purpose: Blush, Powder, Setting, Highlight, Sculpting.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Finishing (blending or buffing the final application), Bronzing.


The Soft Buffer is exactly the same brush as the Face Two released in 2017.
At the time I was aiming for a blush brush with generous density but with movement and flexibility, a bit domed at the top so that when buffing, we could more easily target a smaller area. It also had to be extremely soft and the saikoho goat bristles were wonderful.
We are happy that many years later we are still able to reach the same softness.

This brush still remains very relevant today, specially if you have very sensitive skin and don’t usually enjoy buffing, this Soft Buffer is going to work like a gentle breeze. This was the reason that triggered this design in 2017, I was aiming for a blush brush that could also serve as a soft buffer and that we could use even if we have extremely sensitive skin.

As a blush brush, since the surface is domed, you will have nice control with the placement. As a buffer, with a buffing type of pressure, the surface of the brush that is in contact with the skin will reach approx 2.5 cm diameter.

I use this brush the most with blushes that aren’t very pigmented, with finishing powders, and quite regularly for sculpting with contours or bronzers that are a bit difficult to pick up.

Main purpose: Powder, Setting, Finishing (blending or buffing the final application), Blush.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Bronzing, Sculpting.


There are quite a few buffers across the series! The Sheer Buffer is a stippling brush designed mainly for liquids and creams, it delivers a very soft and diffused application, the other 3 buffers are for powder products:

  • The Buffer Pro has a flat surface and bristles that flex and move together with a similar strength across its surface. It will set, tone down or smooth out the final application with a similar intensity on a large area.
  • The Smooth Buffer functions like the Buffer Pro but it has a smaller diameter, it allows more control on the area to buff.
  • The Soft Buffer has a slightly domed surface, the center of the brush will work with more precision and with more strength in comparison to the edges. It has more flexibility in comparison to the previous two.

If you are going for a very fast buffing all over the face, the Buffer Pro is the way to go.
If you are looking for an effective buffing tool but for example only on the cheek area, or to smooth out the contour, the Smooth Buffer is more appropriate for a powerful buffing with more control in comparison to the Buffer Pro.
The Soft Buffer will deliver a softer buffing but with more precision in comparison to the other two.

Top to bottom: Buffer Pro, Smooth Buffer, Sheer Buffer, Soft Buffer


This Worker L is a new design, it was inspired by a paintbrush and adapted for the face. The idea behind it is to work on details, to perfect, to add accents, or do anything you want on a small perimeter.

It’s quite dense and powerful because the idea was to be able to buff or smooth out a product with strength in areas where bigger brushes cannot navigate easily.

It doesn’t work like a small airy brush, in comparison, a airier brush may not have the strength to work the products properly when the skin has too much elasticity or texture. This Worker L is extremely soft, this was super important because if we intend to use it around the eyes, it just has to be!

The Worker L is part of the “Workers” family, they are called workers because they can tackle different tasks that aren’t always directly related. For example, we could use this little brush for contour, but also to powder smaller areas (around the nose, the eyes, the lips), for highlighter application, to buff and polish tiny areas or to add blush topper or colour accents.

I would not use the Worker L for blush, however, if the blush is the size of an eyeshadow pan and you want to work with an eyeshadow on the cheeks -as a blush or a topper- that’s a fantastic brush to use, just keep in mind that it’s dense. It does have flexibility though and the bristles flow so smoothly that it feels almost therapeutic.

Main purpose: Detail work on the face, Powder, Setting, Highlight, Sculpting.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Blush.

The surface that is in contact with the skin is approx 1.4 cm in diameter.

It’s similar to the Detail Pro in the Pro series. The Detail Pro has a smaller ferrule (1mm difference in diameter), a slightly smaller surface and it’s airier in comparison to the Worker L.

Detail Pro – Worker L

If you have the Detail Pro, it’s difficult to justify purchasing both and I don’t think it’s a necessity at all, but here is where they differ:
The Detail Pro is smaller and airier.
The Worker L is denser, the application is going to be more sustained and with more intensity in comparison, it will be stronger for buffing or polishing.

Worker L – Sculpt Three

In the first Fundamentals, we had the Sculpt Three for precision work, but it was replaced here with this Worker L.

Sculpt Three – Fan Pro

If you love the idea of a little fan for detail work, since the Sculpt Three is not in this release, the Fan Pro is an available option at the moment.


The brushes are not Limited Edition, but they may evolve in the future, this depends on the feedback and on the future collections. As we move on and work on our new projects and restocks, we adapt to the availability of the materials and the new techniques that become available.


The 6 brushes of this set will be available on Beautylish starting on the 18th of July at 10am PT. They will be available as a set and as individuals.
If you wish you can add your name to the Beautylish launch list to be notified when they are available.

Thank you for your kind continuous support, I hope that you will love these brushes and if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to meet me in the comments below!

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Sunsarae 13 July, 2023 - 8:32 pm

They’re beautiful . I’m so excited as I don’t have the original Fundamental Line. Can’t wait to try these.

Sonia G. 13 July, 2023 - 8:45 pm

Thank you!!! It’s amazing and I hope you will love them!!

Sunsarae 13 July, 2023 - 8:40 pm

Will the beautiful accessories seen here be available at some point? Especially the brush tray?

Sonia G. 13 July, 2023 - 8:44 pm

Hi Sunsarae!

Not for the moment but something might come for the holiday, if all goes smoothly because it’s not easy to make 🙂 sending you a big hug!!! <3

Koren Killion 13 July, 2023 - 9:00 pm

So excited for this launch. Can’t wait to get these brushes in my hands. Thanks again.

Sonia G. 14 July, 2023 - 3:18 pm

Hi Koren! thank you so much!!! <3

Severine 13 July, 2023 - 9:15 pm

Merci pour votre investissement, votre travail acharné et passionné. Cet article est extrêmement intéressant à lire. Tout est toujours organisé, parfaitement détaillé, illustré, comparé, expliqué. En fait tu anticipes nos questions si bien qu’à la fin on se retrouve bouche bée ! Un immense bravo encore et encore pour tout ce travail et ce bonheur partagé pour ces nouveaux bébés à arriver le 18 juillet.

Sonia G. 14 July, 2023 - 3:19 pm

Merci Severine, je ne manquerai pas de le communiquer aux artisans en Septembre, merci encore, c’est un plaisir de savoir qu’il y a des gens passionés qui comprennent ces produits et qui supportent l’artisanat.
Très gros bisous!!

Beatriz Losa 23 July, 2023 - 10:31 am

Hello Sonia! I have the soft cheek, Designer pro… then, I need the Classic Cheek of the Fundamentals? Thanks!!

Tiffany 13 July, 2023 - 10:51 pm

Hello, Sonia! Please, can you explain the difference between the Classic Cheek currently offered and the new one? Are both necessary to own? Thank you in advance!

Sonia G. 14 July, 2023 - 3:17 pm

Hi Tiffany, yes sure!
The Classic cheek from the Sky Series is denser, firmer and can be more precise with the placement.
The Classic Cheek from the Fundamentals is more airy, the bristles on the sides are longer and it has a larger surface at the top.
If you wish to have more precision and more strength, the Classic Cheek from the Sky series is better for the job, if you want a more fluffy option with less precision and a more natural application, the Classic Cheek from the Fundamentals is the better option.
I hope this helps and thank you for your question!
Take care!! <3

Ana Lopez 13 July, 2023 - 11:37 pm

Wow!! Gorgeous collection! I missed out the first time you released the fundamentals set, not on my own fault, I didn’t know about fude back then. And here they are back with gorgeous handles. Love the aesthetics more this time around. I’m interested in 4 of the brushes since I bought the sculpt one and sculpt four from a reseller. But I can’t wait to get my hands on them. And what a great idea to sell them as individuals as I don’t want two fo the brushes right off the bat

Sonia G. 14 July, 2023 - 3:09 pm

Hi Ana,

this is great! Yes we thought that since these were available in the past, we had to be able to release them as individuals so we are quite happy we can do it!
Thank you so much for your support, so sorry to hear you had to purchase via a reseller. I hope you will love these!! Take care! <3

Maria 14 July, 2023 - 6:40 am

If I would pick one fan brush for highlight (powder not cream) which one to pick?

Sonia G. 14 July, 2023 - 3:06 pm

Hi Maria, it depends on the pigmentation of the highlighter and the precision you are aiming for, but I would pick the Fan M if I had to pick one from these series. Just keep in mind it is dense so start lightly in case the product is quite pigmented.
For very pigmented products, the Mini Cheek, the Fan Pro or the Lotus Detail are the most appropriate to use. Thank you for asking!! <3

Miriam 14 July, 2023 - 8:53 am

Hi Sonia. These look great! Can you please tell me how the dans compare to the Worker Fan brush? I love that one for brontour but sometimes wish it was a bit bigger.

Sonia G. 14 July, 2023 - 2:55 pm

Hi Miriam,
Thank you!! 🙂
Have a look at the pics here:


The Fan L is quite bigger in comparison and the application will be more diffused and natural, if you are going for a brontour it’s what I do daily, the Fan L is wonderful specially for the forehead and the jawline as the application is diffused and there are no areas that need buffing or smoothing out at the end. The Worker L is for when we want a bit more strength with the product and a more chiseled result. I hope this helps 🙂 thank you again!!!

Anette 14 July, 2023 - 11:12 am

These brushes look amazing! Love the fan shape! But can they be used with creams and liquids, or are they meant for powder products?

Sonia G. 14 July, 2023 - 3:01 pm

Hi Anette, thank you so much!
Technically they can, even the dyed bristles can, however, I really don’t recommend it, specially if it’s for regular use with creams. These natural bristles are very fine and silky, creams require usually a stronger pressure for blending and this will cause damage in the core of the brush. It’s ok when a natural brush is short and the bristles are thicker but it’s not good for the durability of the bristles when the bristles are that fine.
The Fusion series have a combination of synthetic bristles and natural bristles, the synthetic bristles help to support the naturals and extend their lifespan. Were you thinking about a brush or a functionality in particular?

Anette 14 July, 2023 - 8:26 pm

Thank you for taking the time to explain it so clearly! I’ve never really understood which brushes to use with liquids and why, but I finally get it now 🙂 I usually use creamy makeup because my skin tends to get dehydrated and dry in winter – but these brushes seems so soft and dreamy to use, that I might have to get them and experiment with powder makeup… I have the traditions holiday trio, in squirrel, that are such a joy to use with powder eye shadows, that it is hard to use any other kind of eye brush now (have never used those for liquids, luckily!!). And I have a feeling that using these silky, fine fibers with powders might be quite lovely as well…
Perhaps one brush each for highlighter, blush and setting powder?

Tracey 14 July, 2023 - 5:37 pm

Hi Sonia, cannot wait until 18th and as I am in the UK, it is a longer time for me☹. I have a question. How can I easily recognise what can only be used for powders and not creams? I want my brushes to last forever and appreciate the design, workmanship by the artisans and quality of materials and am so worried to misuse them! Is there an easy way to immediately identify please?

Sonia G. 14 July, 2023 - 10:40 pm

Hi Tracey! I will try to explain but it depends also on each speficic brush. The basic rule is synthetics are better for creams and liquids, natural brushes are better for powders. But it’s not like that all the time.
Some natural brushes are sturdy enough (thicker and/or shorter bristles) and they can be used with creams, they may even have synthetic bristles mixed in like my Fusion series (the mix helps), or they may have been designed to work specifically with creams (other glues, etc).

When using creams, we often need more pressure on the brush to pick up the product and blend, the pressure is better tolerated by synthetic bristles because they are all the same thickness and have the same resistance so the stress is nicely spread along all the bristles and the surface of the brush.
With natural bristles, it’s like our hair, there are thicker and thinner bristles in one brush. The thinner bristles are more fragile and they are likely to break more easily. With repetitive and excessive pressure, at the end it will certainly have an impact and weaken the whole core of the brush.
Also, the use of creams usually need more frequent washing and too frequent washing, although very much necessary, does reduce the life span of a brush.

So, many are ready to carry on using natural brushes with creams, because they work, and because they are ok to replace them once they start to show signs of too much breakage for example.

I am actually going to write an article that will be published on the Beautylish website about this precise topic so please stay tuned and it will be very detailed. Unfortunately it’s for August of even September.
In the meantime, best thing is to ask the brand.

The New Fundamentals series, I would not recommend using them with creams, just because they are expensive and these materials are more difficult to replace (walnut wood has and will severely increase in price in the upcoming months/years and natural bristles of great quality become very rare).
I would definitely invest on some good powder brushes, and reserve other brushes for creams and liquids so that we get the best out of both worlds.

Please let me know if that helps, there is also an article here if you are interested as I mention also some details with regards to powder vs cream brushes.

Take care and thank you for your question, sorry the answer is not more clear but it really depends on each brush, don’t worry, if you have any questions, please do let me know!

Tracey Ashton 17 July, 2023 - 7:47 pm

Sonia, Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question re recognising which brushes to use with cream/powder in such an indepth and informative way. I cherish your brushes so much and it means the world to me to make them last practically forever or at least their possible natural lifetime. I know you have a small child but if ever you find the time I would love it if you wrote a book or published a journal from all your many many brush explanations. I know for a fact ot would surely have great demand. Your blog is fab and so so intetesting and I would love to be able to pick up a physical book with beautiful photo’s of each brush with all your explanations of each as a hands on reference. In the meantime, I just cannot wait for tomorrow. It’s like Christmas. Take Care and please keep them coming as I know you will. Best wishes to you.

Song Song 16 July, 2023 - 12:50 pm

Hi Sonia G. Love your new brushes. I really like your buffer brushes so I will get the Soft Buffer. I had a mini base which I use for cream blushes but I feel it quite small. Do u have any brushes for cream in the future? I wish that a brush has C shape and bigger surface than Mini cheek.

Sonia G. 16 July, 2023 - 3:53 pm

Thank you!! The Jumbo Base might be one that you will like for creams (it has a slanted shape), or the Classic Base (it is round but it’s the bigger size of the Mini Base). I hope I understood your question propertly, let me know if you need any help. <3 Thank you again for your support and question!

Georgette 16 July, 2023 - 11:34 pm

I really like the handles! I like the natural walnut wood and they look so sleek; they will go well with the brush holders. Although I have the older fundamental set, I have become a fude lover and I adore your brushes (and Wayne’s). So guess what? Yes, of course I will get them! When are the eye brushes coming out?

Sonia G. 19 July, 2023 - 12:13 am

Hi Georgette!thank you so much for your kind comment!! they have just launched today on Beautylish! <3

LeaAnne 17 July, 2023 - 2:58 pm

These look lovely; great photos and comparisons Sonia. The Keyaki Brushes are ones I reach for the most, as the handles are sleek and beautiful; and so comfortable in the hand. I look forward to picking up a few of these.

RX 17 July, 2023 - 6:28 pm

So glad to see these re-editions! I was so upset when I got into fude and your face two has already been discontinued. May I know how the face two/spft buffer compares with the chikuhodo t4? Also, if I’m looking for a light and precise application of blush just on the apples of the cheek would you recommend the soft buffer or the classic cheek?

Mar 19 July, 2023 - 2:05 pm

Hello Sonia, which brush would you recommend for mineral powder foundation?

Carole Anne Ritchie 22 July, 2023 - 5:47 am

I’ve just ordered these and cannot wait! I’ve also just got my hands on the Hinoki set which I can’t believe is still in stock. I’m so excited to see and use all these beautiful brushes. I never used brushes for make up until I discovered your brushes! And I’ve never looked back. Such amazing quality and I love all of the colours and woods used. Just stunning!

Olga G 29 July, 2023 - 9:10 pm

OMG Sonia, you did it again!

I got my Fundamental set a couple of days ago and I love it! I had same three fans from your original release but I gave them to a friend together with Base One since I have Sheer Buffer now too.

I enjoy reading you blog and learn everything about your piece of art brushes, your creative and manufacturing process. Super interesting and insightful!

I missed out on the Mini Keyaki set V1, I would love you to bring it back. Maybe along with other mini keyaki brushes in a 12 piece Mini Keyaki Totale?.. Would make a perfect gift

Charli 4 August, 2023 - 9:25 pm

These new brushes are so beautiful! I’m loving that you used walnut wood, do you know what kind of walnut? We have a couple of black walnut trees in our yard, they are prevalent where I live. Black walnuts are less acidic and more easily tolerated than other walnuts for eating. Apparently the wood is highly desirable. I have to slowly purchase your brushes but I will eventually own them all Thank you Sonia for sharing your passion ❤️‍

Helena 7 August, 2023 - 7:53 pm

Hi Sonia, I am allergic to all types of nuts and almonds. When I read that the new brushes are made with walnut wood, it got me thinking. Do you know if I can use the brushes with walnut wood without any problems?
I love your brushes ❤️

Sonia G. 22 August, 2023 - 10:06 am

Hi Helena,
It’s a very good question, I am not sure as everyone’s allergies have certain degrees of sensibility within the same type.
What happens when you touch for example a walnut plate or a walnut decorative piece?
The Fundamentals walnut handles are covered with several layers (tonoko powder fills the irregularities of the wood and then 2 urethane coatings are added on top of the walnut wood), but it depends on your sensibility. It would be nice to know if you ever had any reactions when you touch pieces that were crafted with walnut wood. And then also walnut trees species are different and you may not react the same way to all species, but when you say “all types” it seems like a pretty severe reaction.
I am afraid I cannot say for sure but I can give you particular details when it comes to the type of species used and the coatings in case this can help you determine the probabilities of an allergic reaction happening or not.
This is a very interesting topic, please keep me posted if you don’t mind! <3

vicki 22 August, 2023 - 10:48 pm

These are so beautiful. Can you tell me if I can use them with cream products?


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