As I previously mentioned on Instagram, I truly love cream and liquid products in their many formulas and textures. Up until now, my collection has not had any brushes that were primarily designed for this type of products, this is the main purpose of the Fusion series.
I have read your comments on Instagram upon my announcement of these new brushes and I will do my very best to answer all your questions in this post!
The materials
These brushes are handmade in Japan, by Kumano artisans, using their mastered traditional techniques and I really wanted to work on this project with them. I have been looking for a synthetic material or a mix that would be effective and effortless with creams, with movement and flexibility, gentle on the skin but with significant grip! After much research, a combination of 3 different materials: natural bristles (goat), PTT and PBT synthetic filaments -that are made in Japan – is the favorite solution I have found for the application of creams and liquids.
If you already own my Keyaki brush set you are familiar with this mix since the Mini Base brush is bundled with the same materials. Your feedback on this little workhorse brush has been absolutely amazing so I wanted this little brush to be part of the permanent collection.
The Fusion series are an iteration of this Mini Base brush, all of the brushes with the same materials but in new shapes, sizes or density.
Bundled together, these natural and synthetic fibers are going to work complementing the advantages of each, while at the same time compensating for their respective disadvantages. The structure of the natural bristle is going to bring some airiness by spacing the bristles, preventing clumping and they contribute to a more powerful grip. Natural goat bristles have the capability to absorb the excess oils or moisture which will result in a more flawless blend.
A 100% synthetic brush may sometimes lack in grip or buffing power, the bristles may have the tendency to stick together when working with creams and liquids. The structure of the natural bristle is going to help mitigate this issue and prevent a streaky application. On the other hand, synthetic bristles have many benefits and they will facilitate the glide and the diffusion of the product, it really is a continuous effort of both types working together!
Here are some advantages and disadvantages of natural vs synthetics when it comes to the application of creams and liquids. These will vary depending on the type of fibers, the shape, the density of the brush and also our technique so everyone’s experience may differ.
| Advantages with liquids and creams | Disadvantages with liquids and creams | |
| Synthetic brushes | Offer an easier glide and distribution of the product. Don’t absorb too much product. | May clump together when applying liquids or creams. Lack of grip on some products. Lack of strength for buffing. May leave excess product onto the surface of the skin or a streaky result. |
| Natural (goat) brushes | Have added strength for buffing. Absorb the excess moisture or oils on the skin and deliver a less streaky application. | May absorb too much product (waste). May have too much grip on the products or the skin. |
Combining two different synthetic fibers was also key because PTT and PBT have a different elasticity and snap, one is thinner and more flexible, the other is more robust and will give the brush a more decisive core. It’s the combination of the three distinctive materials that is going to give these brushes just the right balance between flexibility, strength and grip, the bristles will adapt to the surface and blend evenly regardless of the texture or movement of our skin.
Maintenance
In terms of maintenance, they should be treated like natural hair brushes since they contain natural bristles. The natural bristles are undyed, the synthetic bristles are dyed brown, this simply helps camouflage the foundation or product residue on the surface of the brush, the brushes aren’t as visibly dirty.
The brushes are delivered clean and sanitized but it’s better to wash them before their first use, the washing will allow the bristles to get to their final position and the brushes will perform to their full potential. A natural/synthetic mix usually dries faster than a full synthetic brush, there are exceptions or variations because synthetics bristles nowadays can be done with so many different type of fibers!
I use the Beautyblender solid soap to wash all my brushes but I have many other soaps that work very well, I primarily make sure that the soaps don’t leave residue on the bristles and that the bristles remain disciplined and soft. It’s very important to use lukewarm water, also to gently remove all the excess water you can without squeezing the ferrule and to lay them flat to dry, not in direct sunlight.
With regards to how often you should wash a brush, it depends on how it continues to perform after having used it a few times and how your skin stands the frequency. I wash my foundation brushes every week depending on how many times I have used them but I do wipe them always after use on a towel and that helps a huge lot.
You can spot clean the brushes as well. If you wipe the brush onto a microfiber towel after use (or if you don’t have one, use any other gentle towel), it will remove most of the product and the brush is fluffy again and ready for the next use. If you need to sanitize it, spray the product on the cloth instead of the brush directly and always wipe the brushes gently and in the direction of the bristles. These brushes may have some shedding at the beginning, a 3-fiber mix will naturally tend to shed more versus other brushes, this is normal and some unattached bristles may only be released after the brush has been used a few times.
Regarding storage, never in direct sunlight and not in a humid place, it would damage the glue inside the ferrule and have consequences on the longevity of the brushes. All brushes have a life span but we do want to keep them for as long as possible!
The functionality
In terms of application, these brushes have medium/high density but with flexibility and movement. Each brush is different, they can work on their own or as a team. As a general rule, they will offer a buildable application and diffuse the product evenly without having to put excessive pressure on the skin.
I created this set with brush sizes and shapes that made sense specifically for this blend of bristles. If, for example, we want to work with more precision and/or with smaller brushes, this blend is not going to bring added benefits to the table. However, it will be great when we want to work on larger areas that don’t require surgical precision.
I loved this material for these brushes because it has a generous grip at the surface without stickiness, and they blend without having to put too much pressure which was extremely important. My skin is not really firm anymore, with areas that are more difficult to work on because the skin moves so much and the foundation usually tends to gather and build up just there and inside the pores. The grip and flexibility of these brushes ensure that the pores and texture are taken into account, gently but effectively. I also have very sensitive and extremely dry skin, the more gentle the application the better, the foundation, or anything else I am applying, will immediately catch in the dry patches if I buff too much or if the brush is too dense and directional.
We all have our favorite techniques to apply creams and liquids, I can’t say that these will cover for all possible scenarios but I can share the challenges that I encountered, or what I tried to achieve with them, maybe you can relate and see if and how these brushes can fit into your routine.
THE BRUSHES
The handles on these brushes are the same as the ones in the PRO series, the total length of each brush is mentioned in the specs below.
For powders?
These brushes have a hybrid functionality, it means that they can definitely be used with powder products if you wish, but their density will provide a heavy application with powder and a strong buffing. I use them with powder foundation or finishing powders when I am going for a heavy coverage or when I need a final buff to even out or to fix something.
I use the Classic Base and the Mini base with powder blush but only with sheer or difficult to pick products. I sometimes use them with pressed foundation powders to add a bit more coverage where I want to, or with setting powders, but keep in mind these are quite dense and decisive. The Soft Concealer can be used on the entire eye lid for eyeshadow and so can the Jumbo Concealer.
If you are looking for a brush that can work with mineral or pressed foundation powders, in a buildable and softer manner, I prefer to recommend you the Smooth Buffer and/or the Face One from my collection. These two brushes will offer the same experience with powders as these Fusion brushes offer with creams and liquids.
SOFT CONCEALER
There are two concealer brushes in the set. The bristles of the Soft Concealer are a bit longer and have more movement in comparison to the Jumbo Concealer so the application is softer and more diffused. The Soft Concealer is very appropriate when we aim for a softer gradual application, the Jumbo Concealer will deliver a more decisive and opaque placement.
This Soft Concealer is a smaller version of the Mini Base brush. I use it mainly with concealers but also to place and diffuse the eyeshadow primer, it’s the size of a fingertip at the very top.
It looks similar to the Detail Pro, but the Soft Concealer is denser and shorter at the tip. You can also use it for powders, all over the lid or to set your concealer, it’s not as fluffy as the Detail Pro but it remains soft and flexible.
There are so many similar brushes, you have a huge choice here! I am showing you some similar brushes that I have in my collection, probably the most similar being the Sephora 57, in shape, size and movement. In comparison, the Soft Concealer has more flexibility, I mean that the bristles bend more easily as it moves while the Sephora 57 feels a bit firmer at the top. It’s a similar case with the others, the bristles are more firm at the very top, it’s not necessarily a bad thing, I was just aiming for a brush that would have more flexibility and less pull on the skin.
| Details: Hair length: 18mm Total brush length: 163mm Ferrule: 10mm Material: sokoho goat and synthetic bristles Price: 32 USD | Use for: – Concealer – Eye primer – Precision placement and blending of brightening, correcting or contouring creams in specific areas of the face, around the nose, around the mouth, temples, etc. |
JUMBO CONCEALER
This Jumbo Concealer offers more precision and opacity in comparison to the Soft Concealer, it has less movement in the bristles in order to work more easily with thicker textures or when we aim for more intensity with a heavier placement. It has a pinched ferrule (not round) with a generous thickness, we can use the sides or the tip of the brush depending on the precision we require.
I have some redness on my face that shows usually in small patches and some days of the month I know that I will have thick dark circles that also extend from the inner eye to the bridge of the nose. I will grab the Jumbo Concealer to work on that, with the appropriate corrector. I work with a light hand and place a little product then blend either with the Jumbo Concealer or the Mini Base. I prefer to use the Jumbo Concealer for that purpose, rather than the Soft Concealer, because some correctors are difficult to pick and place, this brush allows also more strength and more control with the placement in comparison to the Soft Concealer.
It looks similar to the Jumbo Blender but it is much larger and thicker sideways.
The Jumbo Concealer is dense and firm but in comparison to similar brushes, it often has more movement and adapts very nicely.
The Real Techniques Concealer has a similar shape but is much smaller and more directional. The Sephora 67 is a much dense brush with barely any movement in the bristles.
| Details: Hair length: 16mm Total brush length: 151mm Ferrule: 14*9mm Material: sokoho goat and synthetic bristles Price: 30 USD | Use for: – Concealer – Eye primer – Precision placement and blending of brightening, correcting or contouring creams in specific areas of the face, around the nose, mouth, temples, etc. |
MINI BASE
It’s a very versatile brush that can handle foundation application on the entire face or work on smaller areas. It’s like a bridge brush between concealer and foundation: it can do both depending on your needs but it is also the perfect size for cream blush and cream contour. This is the brush that is always with me if I need to pick only one since I can do everything with it, from touch-ups to an entire application.
I often use this brush on its own for cream blush but also as an extension together with the other brushes, I think that it’s the brush that gets to work the most!
I have two brushes that are quite similar, the Smashbox and the Zoeva and I like both a lot. There is not a lot of difference here but you asked me for some comparisons… I would say that the flexibility of the bristles is what differs the most: the Mini Base has a more smooth movement, more analog, while the Zoeva or the Smashbox have a more binary flexibility even though it’s subtle. I am not sure how to explain this and I hope you understand what I mean. When I was designing my brushes, I was looking for the smoothest flexibility so that the bristles bend and glide and don’t disturb whatever we have applied underneath.
A little side note: I often feel very strange when I compare other brushes with mine because I do not want to sound arrogant and I don’t want my comments to be taken the wrong way. I love brushes, I enjoy many of different costs and brands.
| Details: Hair length: 23mm Total brush length: 163mm Ferrule: 15mm Material: sokoho goat and synthetic bristles Price: 40 USD | Use for: – Concealer for larger areas – Placement and blending of brightening, correcting or contouring creams in specific areas of the face – Foundation application – Cream blush |
CLASSIC BASE
This Classic Base brush has a working surface of approx 22mm at the top, which is ideal for foundation and very versatile with various products or formulas. This brush pairs very well with many foundations, also cream foundations that are packaged in compacts, sticks or pans.
The bristles bend smoothly as they move across the structure of our face, this allows for an even application and they don’t feel aggressive on sensitive skin. There is no need to put pressure and it’s recommended to start with little product and see how the grip and the intensity builds. The blending won’t disturb the base or foundation you have underneath, but keep in mind that it depends on what products are layered and how they set. On myself, whether I apply primer or spf under my foundation, cream or sculpting products, when using this brush I don’t experience issues and the layer underneath stays put.
I use the Classic Base with my liquid foundation on a daily basis (basically, if the Jumbo Base is dirty I grab this one and vice versa). I also use it with cream blush, cream contour or cream bronzer either to sculpt or to add a bit more coverage when I need it.
I love to pair this brush with the Danessa Myricks Essentials Waterproof palette, I use this palette sometimes on its own or to add more coverage after the foundation, it’s my go-to look at the moment and it stays put with the heat. For blush or contour, the Mini Base brush is going to be more appropriate as it gives us more control on the perimeter but the Classic Base can also handle cream blush with sufficient control for most of us.
The technique to use with this Classic Base depends on the type of product we are applying and the prep that we did on our skin (how wet or dry the skin is before applying foundation).
When I use a thicker foundation cream, I pick up a little bit of product with the tip of the brush and stipple it quickly but gently on several places until there is little to no more product on the brush, once this is done I gently buff those dots with a straight pat-and-swipe movement or in circular motions. I use a similar technique with a more liquid foundation but then I tend to move more in circular motions. I love short quick pat-and-glide strokes, it’s like stippling but with movement 🙂
These cream blush pans are 32mm diameter, you can see how the Classic Base (on the left) compares to the Mini Base, both brushes fit in those pots, then it will depend on how precise you want the placement and blending to be.
There are quite a few brushes with that shape in the market, I just wanted to show you some of them for size reference. The closest in size is the Hakuhodo J210 even though the ferrule of the Classic Base is 2mm larger, but the shape and surface at the top is quite close. The density is slightly higher in the Classic Base.
I could have gone “bigger” with the size but I wanted this brush to also be appropriate for cream blush and to allow more control on the application of foundation, specially if we wish to work with different shades of foundation to give a more sculpted look.
You asked me to compare the Classic Base to the Bisyodo foundation brush, the Chikuhodo F02, T3, or Z3, I have the T3 and the Z3 at the moment. The Classic Base has more flexibility in the bristles in comparison to the T3, the T3 feels a bit denser but at the surface they cover a similar perimeter. The T3 has a more decisive grip on the product. The Z3 is much smaller and cannot be used with creams.
It is a smaller version of the Master Face but the Classic Base has a firmer denser body in order to handle liquids and creams.
| Details: Hair length: 27mm Total brush length: 167mm Ferrule: 18mm Material: sokoho goat and synthetic bristles Price: 55 USD | Use for: – Foundation application – Cream blush – Cream contour – Buffing |
These brushes are siblings, they quite similar in shape but the surface they cover differs:
JUMBO BASE
This is the swipe-and-go brush for liquid foundation application. It’s big, but the slanted shape facilitates the application around the eyes and nose and blends effortlessly.
This is the brush I use with my liquid foundations. The technique is different if you compare it with the Classic Base, this is more a press-and-glide motion, short or medium strokes, whatever fits your product best, but you don’t need to use too much pressure as this is not necessary. I love the hugging flexibility of the bristles, how it glides so smoothly, it almost feels like a therapeutic massage.
If you use this brush with powder, it’s going to act more like a powder puff, patting the powder where you need it.
I have quite a few foundation brushes, some are similar in design but the curve, the size, the density is going to differ. If you have any of these brushes below, you can have a better idea of the width and surface.
The Real Techniques is much bigger and less dense.
The Marc Jacobs has a much bigger surface but the technique is similar.
The Smashbox covers a similar real estate but has a rounded shape.
I am showing you more foundation brushes below, even though they are quite different! You may have some of these brushes so it can be useful to see them side by side. Before I used the Jumbo Base, I was using the Mac or the Hourglass. The Mac is much firmer and denser. The Hourglass is very nice, it has movement and blends nicely but again, the main difference is how the bristles can bend and follow the structure of the face.
I also wanted to show you how its size compares to the Face Pro because the width of the ferrule is very close.
| Details: Hair length: 27mm Total brush length: 167mm Ferrule: 28*17mm Material: sokoho goat and synthetic bristles Price: 68 USD | Use for: – Foundation application |
Thank you for reading this very long post, if you have any questions, please do not hesitate! I really hope that you will love these new brushes just as much as I do!!!
Availability
The set of 5 brushes costs 225$, they are not Limited Edition, they will stay as long as there is interest. These brushes will be available starting Tuesday June 22nd, at 10am PT on Beautylish. They will be available individually as well. Maybe you don’t want or don’t need a whole set of brushes to use with creams, but just the one(s) that better fit(s) into your routine 🙂 I use all of the 5 brushes constantly and I believe that if you go for the set, you will find a role for each one of them!
I think that I answered the questions that I saw on Instagram in the post except for the one regarding the restocks. You are asking me when the other brushes from the collection are coming back. I am very happy and relieved to say that they are in production. They were delayed for many reasons, material availability and then covid. These new Fusion brushes did not delay the production of the restocks because it’s not the same materials or not the same manufacturers behind them.
There is an upcoming restock for July for some brushes but I cannot confirm what will arrive until we get closer to the delivery date. Please keep in mind that restocks are more important to me than launching new brushes, restocks will always be my priority. If they don’t happen sooner is because technically they can’t, I wish there was something I could do to make that happen faster!
I wish you all an amazing weekend, I hope you are able to spend some time with your loved ones and please stay safe!!!
35 comments
Hi Sonia, congratulations with this new launch. Can you use the Jumbo Base with cream foundation? Best wishes.
Hi Julie,
Thank you so much!! yes absolutely, it’s just a matter of using the technique that better fits the product and the brush, the Classic Base is more appropriate for those who prefer having a combination of possibilities with regards to techniques (circular, swipe, stipple), the Jumbo Base is more swipe, stipple but not circular 🙂 I hope this helps and again, thank you so much!!
Can’t wait to try these!! I got the Keyaki set at launch and just figured out how to use the mini base properly & it’s now my favorite – soft, delicate, flawless. Tysm for this launch!!
Hi Julie! thank you to you for your kind support and your encouragements! I am very happy that the Mini Base is your favorite! that’s just wonderful!! <3
Thank you so much! this post was very helpful. I’m getting the set for sure!
Thank you so much Tracy!! I am very grateful for your support and happy that it was helpful! <3
Thank you! You included all the brushes I was wondering about comparisons. And you don’t sound arrogant at all just proud! I love your brushes and can’t decide which to get so I am happy they are available as singles…so I can go back and buy additional if I want (but doubt they’ll be available)!
Thank you Felicia! I am quite relieved and so happy that it’s helpful to see them side by side! let’s see what happens but if they are loved they will come back 🙂 sending you lots of love!!
These new brushes look absolutely beautiful. I’m particularly interested in the Mini Base, the Soft Concealer and the Jumbo Concealer because I find as I get older I enjoy smaller more precise brush for applying blush and bronzer, as well as when I apply my foundation and or concealer. I’m excited to use them with all the new cream blushes and bronzers that have been coming out. ~ Charli
Hi Sonia, congratulations on your new brushes. Can you use cream foundation with the Jumbo Base? You only mentioned liquid foundation while you have mentioned cream foundation with the Classic Base. I have the Suqqu cream foundation. Btw I use many of your other brushes and they are great.
Congratulations Sonia!!!! I’m so happy for you, and they are absolutely gorgeous ❤️❤️❤️! I already know which ones I would get .
Will you ever sell them elsewhere than at Beautylish? Like somewhere that ships worldwide? I know Beautylish claims they do, but the sad reality is that they actually only ship to 58 countries (including the US, lol), and well, there are 195 countries in the world . It’s just so frustrating to see launch after launch, and well, most of the hundreds of brushes I have were based on your recommendations and reviews , so of course I’m dying to get my hands on yours . Sorry, just super frustrated by the lack of access
Huge hugs, and I know these will be flying off the shelves in no time ❤️
If you want to get your hands on some brushes and Beautylish (or other brush retailers) don’t ship to your country, you can always use a forwarding service! You’ll have to do some research based on fees and timings but I’ve found forwarders to be a convenient way of getting my hands on some US only products.
Suki, that’s a workable solution in principle, but only if doubling the overall cost (more or less) isn’t a dealbreaker. I used to use forwarding services regularly, but ultimately the costs ended up being just too prohibitive. Aside from that, good suggestion! 😉
Hi Sonia! I’d really appreciate a visual demonstration of the pat and glide technique you discuss when using the Classic Base. Please create some visual demonstrations for how to use your brushes!
Hi Sonia, I have the new base one and I’m wondering where it fits in terms of the fusion brushes. For example, can it be used similar to the classic or mini base? Thx. J.
Hi Julie, this Base One was primarily designed for applying a sheer layer of foundation or cream blush in a more “glossy” or “glass” type of finish as it will work more on the surface, while the Fusion series have more grip and work more in depth, absorbing more the excess that you see on the skin so finish is more buffed and mattified. Now that the Fusion series are here, which took a while because it was very difficult to get to this result, then Base One may not need to stay in the collection because the Fusion series can replace what the Base One does, but let’s see how these are welcomed first!
Hugs! <3
Hi Sonia
I have bought few of your brushes and live love them. i was waiting for this set to be released so i can buy. i live in Australia and due to time difference i was not able to get them I was up mid night but they were out of stock.
Now waiting for restock. hope they will be coming back soon.
love you n your brushes ❤️
How quickly did they sell out? I never saw them available on the Beautylish site as they were sold out immediately. It is so disappointing to wait and watch for these brushes and then not have a chance to buy them.
Will the face pro, face one and cheek pro be restocked ? I purchased your other brushes but need some different brushes for powders.
I just have a question I’ve read this post before but I just want to Make sure shedding for these brushes are normal cause I did get some shedding not when I washed but when I used them after?
Hi Brittany,.
yes it’s normal to experience some shedding with these brushes, it takes more time for them to stabilize because of the mix and 3 different type of fibers and their density.
Also, there is no need to use big pressure with them as the bristles have grip and they can blend without hard pressure. Excessive pressure can cause bristles to break (in any type of natural brush).
There is also some recommendations, that the Jumbo base is a swipe brush more than a circular motion type of brush and the Classic Base can be used either way.
Keep me updated on how it goes please <3
I love how through your descriptions are you’ve answered all the questions I had about the brushes except for one lol. How does the Jumbo Base compare in size to the Koyudo fupa 02 (the wide one)?
I want to say you are such a blessing to this industry. You’ve filled the void I’ve had for brushes to use with my creams and liquids. Thank you for sharing you vision with us.
Sorry i meant the square one i think it’s the fupa-03, and the bisyodo bfd01?
Hi Sabia!
Do you think you could mean the fupa07 ? https://sweetmakeuptemptations.com/2013/01/16/koyudo-fu-pa-brushes/
I don’t own that Bisyodo yet so I cannot compare to that one …
Just let me know which Fu-pa did you mean 🙂
Thank you so so much for your interest and I wouldn’t be here without you so I am the one who is grateful eternally! hugs!!!
Hello!
I had it correct, I was referring to the fupa-02 that looks like the bisyodo bfd01. If you compared to the other fupas that would just be extra. I wanted to see how big it was completed to the fupa-02 and it’s mini. Thank you!
Hello Miss G.
Hope you are doing well. I would like to ask you if there is a tentative date for restock of your new brushes.
🙂 Thank you and wishing you a nice day.
Hi Yolanda, well, the latest update was towards mid to end July so I hope we will receive good news soon!!! thank you so much for your interest and your incredible patience! take care and have a wonderful day!!
Are you going to have a restock date for this set. It sold out before I could purchase them.
Oh Sonia, I was so pleased to see your post today that this brush set may be available next week. I will definitely set an alarm for 3am Sydney Australia time to get my order in this time. Your brushes are beautiful and thank you for always responding to my correspondence.
Thank you so much for answering my question about the Classic Base. I never replied to thank you and I apologize for that. I really appreciate all the time, effort and energy you put into these posts. This has become my go to place to learn about Fude. Thank you for all that you do. I hope today brings sunshine and happiness.
Hi Sonia, I’ve been checking Beautylish everyday just to see if Fusion series is back in stock. Even though I have an email alert set up, I am obsessively checking 🙂
Any idea when these brushes would be restocked?
Hi Arti,
They are in production at the moment, it should still take a couple of months roughly but because it’s holiday season therefore I am not sure how timely they can work on them. This is not a restock that will arrive in the upcoming weeks unfortunately… I will post once I know how fast it’s progressing! I have to contact the manufacturer today and if there is a more precise info I will let you know here.
Thank you so much for your interest!! <3
MEEEE TOOOO!! It’s January and I still check EVERY DAY!!!! Lol
These have been out of stock on beautylish for ages! I’ve been dying to get my hands on them. Are they discontinued or just still in production?! Thanks!
Hi! They are planned to be back to arrive next month (August) ! Thank you so much for your comment and for your patience! Almost there… 🙂