I have received these new Wayne Goss brushes recently and I have been using them non stop, I am now ready to share some pics and my thoughts.
Then you unzip -it’s a challenge to stay calm at this point- the set comes in this cardboard tube:
That feeling when you know you got 6 new great brushes to play with, is just… I am a little bit addicted, but I cannot believe that I still get so excited when I receive new brushes!
Black and white looks good and is timeless, I believe Wayne wanted to keep the price as affordable as possible so keeping them nice but simple (I am speaking about the handle) is a fantastic way to keep the price “affordable” while still giving them a sophisticated and sexy look.
This new Face Set is replacing the Face Set that I have reviewed here, so if you wanted those brown dyed goat brushes, well, they have been discontinued and I don’t know if they will ever come back.
PREVIOUS FACE SET VS NEW FACE SET
I love the old ones, I know they are dyed but I don’t mind at all, this dye on those bristles gives them more structure to the cuticle, hence an additional gripping power or slightly more firmness and fullness, this can result in a bit more precision and control. I was going to get a few more because to me they are THAT extraordinary and I can justify getting at least one backup of the 12, 13 and the14. I am not saying that these new white undyed Wayne Goss brushes are not efficient, they truly are, but my personal preference tends to lean towards the brown ones for those reasons I mentioned.
Some of you will prefer the brown ones because they don’t look dirty when dirty, others will prefer the white ones because they look more beautiful, are softer or the bristles are exempt from any dye. It really is a personal preference.
These goat brushes are all Saikoho bristles, they feel even softer and are more airy than the brown dyed bristles, on top of that this is probably the best Saikoho I came across in my recent purchases, I noticed the quality wasn’t as consistent during the last months (years even). I also see more stability in the shapes, sometimes you may notice that some saikoho brushes can be a bit irregular in shape, mainly because the bristles are really fine and more difficult to shape but these are perfectly shaped from top to bottom, from left to right and from front to back.
Don’t forget these are fine natural bristles, if you travel with them and don’t store them in a proper brushroll, their shape can be bent or squeezed (until you wash them again), if you use a brush roll or a brush guard while you are on the go it’ll be good for them.
The first thing I have noticed after washing them is that it looks like the layers of bristles start to build up closer to the ferrule, whether this is intentional or not, this means a bigger contact surface to work with and more capabilities of working at an angle if you so desire. Changing the angle may allow you to be more directional or to use more strength with the brush for a more efficient blending, depends on the shape of the brush.
These brushes feel like a thick silky layer of feathers, cotton balls are rough in comparison. I had saikoho brushes with me when I was talking to a close friend last week (she isn’t yet into brushes, well, she is now), her jaw dropped when she touched them. When you come from the MAC world, it is a shocking surprise.
WAYNE GOSS 10
Keep in mind that this set is a replacement for the previous Face Set = similar brushes, different hair. Almost. The only brush that is completely different is this number 10, the big duo fiber has been substituted by a mini candle shape brush 100% natural.
It was a good move, you get much more use of this new number 10, blush, highlighter, contour, powder (perfect under the eyes), it really is very multipurpose. It’s the exact replica of his 00 white powder brush, like a mini 00 with more softness and density.
I use this type brush a lot with highlight, sometimes with contour and often with blush. I have a huge lot of mini blushes and this is the type of brush that I keep in my make-up bag as I know it will fit all size pans. You can see by the state of my Wayne Goss number 02 that it has been with me a lot.
The Takumi T-5 is also candle shaped but bigger and less dense, the quality of the saikoho bristles on both brushes is great although I find the WG 10 a little bit finer. With the WG 10 you get a mini candle shape, the Takumi T-5 is a medium version and the WG 00 a big version of it. 😀
The new WG #10 has more strength and thickness than the squirrel version (#02) and is also less directional, those are the reasons why it can be a more multipurpose tool.
The Hakuhodo J5521 doesn’t splay out as much, in terms of softness you can’t feel a difference. The layers of the WG start closer to the ferrule.
WAYNE GOSS 11
There are several brushes available on the market that are shaped like this Wayne Goss, this brush is the kind of shape that is either adapted for swirling onto products or to use with its side for more control, or perpendicular for additional precision.
It’s known to be the most typical shape for a blush brush. This #11 is dense but airy, more airy than the WG #12 so the application you can achieve can go from sheer to medium, with the #12 you will get a heavier application and you will get higher buffing capabilities.
VERSUS THE PREVIOUS #11
The previous 11 feels fuller and stronger, it offers more direction and has a stronger blending capability. The new 11 is silkier, significantly softer and more airy.
I often use my WG 11 either with bronzer or with sheer blushes when I don’t necessarily need precision and want to cover a larger cheek zone.
If you already have several blush brushes shaped like this and want to experience something different, you better pick another brush from his Face Set, but if you don’t have any similar blush brush or if you have to pick just one brush to offer as a present I would recommend you this new 11 as it is the easiest and the one that potentially will work for most people and most products.
WAYNE GOSS 12
This brush is denser than the WG 11 and has a flatish surface that you can use to place and blend. You can also pick the product on one side of the brush and blend with the other as you apply.
I use this brush mainly for contour as my contour products are not very pigmented so there is no risk I’ll go overboard, but I do love a polished look and this flat dense surfaces are excellent, when I start using it I don’t put it down for weeks!
If you go for a thinner more precise application of contour, better use the number 10.
VERSUS THE PREVIOUS #12
The previous #12 has more grip at the surface but again, the new #12 is softer.
They both have great density and splay out really nicely to end up having a very similar surface.
VERSUS SIMILAR OPTIONS
This #12 brush is more precious to look at than the previous version because of the gorgeous black and white combination, however, if I had to chose I will definitely stick to the old 12, for contour it is a tad stronger for blending, there isn’t much difference though so if you prefer how the white looks you should not regret the brown.
The WG 12 has a smaller ferrule than the Tom Ford 06, a quite similar shape but it’s not as soft as the WG.
The Smith Cosmetics 115 that you see here has synthetic and goat bristles, not at all as soft and it’s a foundation brush (more airy and rough) but I wanted to show you what similar shapes could be available out there.
The Hakuhodo J5543 looks like the WG but again, the layers start closer to the ferrule on the WG. On this brush it doesn’t change much its functionality but gives the WG a tiny bit more surface to play with and to use for blending.
WAYNE GOSS 13
This is a huge hit, such a gorgeous little fluffy, extremely dense and absolutely crazy soft brush. One of my favs ever from WG is this one and the old 13, the new is great but I still don’t want to put the previous 13 down…
VERSUS THE PREVIOUS #13
The new WG #13 really feels like silk and its finer bristles do follow better the face features and distribute a softer and more equal pressure compared to the old 13, the previous 13 has a bit more grip on the surface.
The size of the 11, 12 and 13:
The Kashoen is bigger, the bristles are stronger and thicker, not as soft as the WG at all. Actually it’s their brush for washing the face, not applying blush or powders… but I use it for powders. It has big blending and buffing capabilities (no kidding) so I like it for buffing, although sometimes my skin feels extremely sensitive and I cannot use it.
I bought the Takeda many years ago but it’s incredibly rough, I was hoping this would be ok for foundation because it’s stiff and dense but not overly dense, however, it is just too stiff. I don’t even know the number..
The WG is similar to the Hakuhodo LE that should be like a J210 but again the layers start closer to the ferrule, I have more surface at the top and on the sides to apply and blend.
The Hakuhodo 210 is much more rough, strong and densely bundled in comparison to the WG, I can’t use it on myself today for make-up application but I see other uses, massaging the forehead for example sounds crazy, but feels good when you are having a bad headache.
WAYNE GOSS 14
When I got the old brown #14 it was a revelation, a huge hit for me. At first I used it a lot with blush and today I also use it with bronzer which I never thought I would, but it’s a match made in heaven.
VERSUS THE PREVIOUS #14
The new WG #14 feels slightly softer and splays out a bit more so you get a less directional application but it’s still perfectly fine for a blush application, if you use it perpendicularly the point will deliver the perfect placement for a blush .
VERSUS SIMILAR TYPE OF BRUSHES
That Hakuhodo G5540 is also a dream, today I could not even live without it, it’s so freaking fantastic for highlighter or setting powder in small zones or for the lightest contour, the WG is much bigger but to use with bronzer or pigmented blushes it is simply one of the best.
If you use very pigmented blushes, this brush is perfect to pair with them, whether they contain shimmers or are vibrant colors, the application is always effortless AND foolproof.
This is a brush that I would just buy because it’s pretty to look at, then I would repurchase for its efficiency.
VERSUS THE PREVIOUS #15
The previous #15 feels a bit fuller but in terms of results, it is the same.
Compared to the Hakuhodo, the WG #15 feels very slightly thicker if you press the sides together.
This one I just use for highlighter or to swipe away powder but it is still so worth it! I saw other beauty gurus using it for blush or bronzer or contour, it will depend on what type of products you use or what application you need.
There are no duds in this set, all the brushes are useful, great quality, so ordering the set does make sense. If you don’t want or can’t get the set, the individuals should become available in the future.
IMHO, the most unique brushes to own (and my own personal preference) are :
- the 14,
- the 13,
- the 10,
- the 12,
- the 15,
- the 11.
The difference between the previous brown brushes and their counterpart in white is not very significant, or not enough to justify both sets, however if you love white brushes, yes it will be a gorgeous and very useful set to add to your collection. If you want just the number 10 you should wait until it becomes available individually.
If you get the whole set, you get several blush brushes (12,13,11), several bronzer brushes (10, 11, 12, 13, 14), several powder brushes (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), several highlight brushes (10, 13, 14, 15) several sculpting brushes (10, 12), you can assign one brush to one purpose, or assign one brush to one product, so many possibilities!
This is how I love to use them the most:
The #10 with the Surratt contour and highlight.
Number 10 and 13 with my IPSA palettes, these are small pans which require natural dense brushes.
The number 11 with nude or sheer blushes that I want to apply on a less precise zone (here Natasha Denona #15 and Marc Jacobs 504):
The number 12 with neutral bronzers that don’t have shimmer (TF Terra), contour powders (Surratt again) or SKII or Koh Gen Do. Also with neutral blushes like the Gucci Nude Fresia (it’s almost like a contour/dimensional blush).
The number 14 my fav products to use with it are shimmery bronzers (TF Gold Dust of By Terry Sun Designer):
Also with very pigmented matte or shimmery blushes. With the very pigmented matte it will deliver an application that you just can’t fail and with the shimmery blushes it will not accentuate the shimmer.
I also pair it with setting powders that have a little glow to them (like this Clarins Cotton Flower) but I apply so little of it that this kind or brush doses the product for me.
The number 15 with Dior Glowing Gardens or the Courrèges from EL, but also with all my other highlighters when I just want a very light application.
They can be used with powders or creams but I only use mine with powders, I have used number 13 with cream blush but since I have his duo fiber brush (#01) I prefer to use that one. I admit I haven’t paired all these brushes with creams, I just tried the new #10 and the #13 but I prefer to use stronger or synthetic brushes for that purpose and keep these extremely soft ones for powders. It’s great to know that should you wish to pair them with creams or liquids, these will not bleed.
The set is 250$, if for example you were to get similar kind of brushes from Hakuhodo, you would roughly pay 20$ more and not all would be saikoho, so the price IMHO is reasonable.
If you are new to Japanese handmade brushes, this is as good as its gets quality vs price.
I will update when I’ll know about the individual availability. Wayne’s video can be watched here and he will explain all about them.
Thank you for reading me if you made it till here… hope this was helpful and if you have questions, please don’t hesitate!
It is available here on the Beautylish website.
This set was sent to me for my consideration.