Wayne Goss has been very busy lately, after his first set, then the Holiday powder brush, he just released a new face set with 6 brushes, it is available in two places depending on where you live. So hop here (UK seller) or here (USA seller) depending on your location. These brushes were given to me by Wayne, we are both crazy about brushes (I mean really crazy) but this is not new to you. The eye set will be released very shortly, I believe on Tuesday for pre-order, then they will be sold individually but not yet.
Update : I believe these are white goat hair coloured brown (white hair is often bleached to have the final very white finish, brown hair brushes come usually from white hair coloured brown or “tea”, black goat brushes are usually dyed black). I washed them and no issues whatsoever, no bleeding of course.
I just know that my hair is exactly the same color!! well, the WG brushes don’t have white hairs hiding in the middle of them 😀 this reminds me I need an urgent appointment to the hairdresser, my roots are approx 7cm long.. last time I went to the hairdresser was in Scotland, in September! Anyway, that’s another topic but my hair is dry and the goat bristles are in much better shape!
The brushes are all goat except for the #20, which is a blend with squirrel/goat and the #10, synthetic/goat. On the back of the handle you see the number of the brush and it looks like it has been written with laser, maybe this will prevent the lettering to wash away, to be confirmed with time but it does feel and look nice.
The #18 looks like canadian or pine squirrel but it is goat, feels softer than the usual type of black goat hair but we will talk about this later on.
First a pic with some of the Wayne Goss face brushes. What I wanted to show you here is specially the 3 on the left, the difference in their size, both front and sideways (I am just rotating the two on the left)
The 12 and 13 are dense brushes, the 11 is less dense and more splayed out. The 14 is not dense, has a lot of flexibility (this brush is probably my fav from the face set).
I am going to show you some comparison pics and I also took pics against my face as I was applying my makeup since you seem to like that 🙂 (thank you!)
Wayne Goss #10
This is the classical stippling brush, similar to the Mac 187, if you are used to apply your foundation -or other product- with the Mac 187, this does it the same way, just better, I feel like it has more “grip” to blend the product than the Mac.
I use it for Chanel Bronze Universel, Sisley phyto-touche sun glow, Givenchy Croisière bronzers (all creamy-gel textures). I don’t use it for foundation because it doesn’t have enough control for me and I don’t find these stippling brushes allow me a flawless blending. It is very soft, the surface is larger than the Mac 187 but other than that, it is a similar brush, just more freaking gorgeous.
The stippling family :
By the way, I placed last week an order for this brush but my expectations are similar than with a WG10 or a Mac 187, I don’t expect it to be any better in terms of control or blending, it was just because I wanted the whole stippling family and no family is complete without a Koyudo member.
Wayne Goss #11
This is the type of brush that any artist who releases a brush collection should include and in my opinion it is mandatory. Charlotte Tilbury did it (although it is scratchy for me), Kashoen have one (love it), Louise Young has one (again too scratchy for my sensitive skin). Rae Morris needs to come up with one “fool-proof” type of blush brush. Her Kabukis are really lovely but quite dense.
This one differs from other blush brushes because it is not too dense, not too floppy, perfect balance between softness and efficiency. Same about the Hakuhodo J110 or the Kashoen blush brush, these two follow the same pattern.
WG #11 is a bit denser than the Kashoen (Kashoen is a HG for me), they are very similar in the way the work, just that the Kashoen is a bit more splayed out. The softness of the WG#11 is similar, not much difference and the density is a bit missleading when trying to compare them.
The Bobbi Brown powder brush pictured here was my very first high end brush, I paid 80chf (approx 80usd) in Switzerland for it, I don’t know how many years it has but a lot. It is not that soft but it was super efficient and I was using it for everything, the density ratio was so perfect! I remember someone asking me recently “you don’t show any BB brushes, don’t you like them ?” well yes I do for some, but I have a lot of them so if I have to make comparisons to all the others I own it will take me forever to take the pics. I am not complaining 🙂 I just wanted to take this opportunity to mention why I started with very high end softer brushes when these were perfectly doing their job, because I needed softer versions. Today I have very sensitive skin and specially around my eyes I can only use non-cut soft brushes. I could still use the BB powder brush here but I prefer softer brushes, not because I am spoiled (just a bit) but because I can really feel a huge difference.
The Hakuhodo J110 and Koyudo BP016 are less dense than the WG 11, just slightly softer too but not much, on the skin you can feel they have different density but not different softness.
The Charlotte Tilbury has a perfect shape and size, but gosh it’s doesn’t feel that pleasant at all. It’s very sad because it would be a fantastic brush.
I have also been asked to compare my brushes to more easily available brushes (Mac for example), I have a Mac 116 but although I love it’s size and density it is just rough in comparison to the WG 11, you have more precision with the 116 since it’s small and firm but I can’t really use it, I keep it for other reasons.
It is also a nice size to fit nearly all of us, I can use it for bronzer, blush, powder or contour.
It’s a blush, contour, powder brush, just like the #11 but denser and flat at the top.
Similar to TF 06 and Hakuhodo J5543, same density. It feels like these two white ones are softer than the WG but on the skin I feel no difference.
I also show you the portable Hakuhodo that came with this set, it is not as dense but it has a very similar shape. Even if it has a blend of squirrel/goat, it feels quite similar in terms of softness to the three on the left.
Sideways you have a better view of the surface :
Wayne Goss #13
I prefer flat blush brushes than pointy, I thought this would be very dense and that it would feel like a mass of hair but I was wrong and I am so happy about that!
I often heard that the Mac 109 or Hakuhodo 210 were versatile brushes, everybody has his own opinion and I totally respect it. I don’t find these two (Mac 109, Haku 210) that versatile, they are too dense for that but it is just my humble opinion.
With the WG 13 you are more close to the Chikuhodo GSN-04 density than the Hakuhodo 210 (or Mac 109). I love this WG a lot, I would have preferred if it was even a bit less dense but it is really gorgeous. I get more use of it than the Mac 109 or similar density brushes. It is softer than the Koyudo C004, it’s a bit similar to the GSN-04 in softness (it’s a blend goat/squirrel). The Chikuhodo RC-2 is softer than the others because it is only squirrel hair.
I love round flatish brushes and you can see that in this pic (but I have even more…) :
Mac 109 and Hakuhodo 210 are a bit too rough, the Koyudo C004p is better.
Since the WG is apparently non-dyed, you can use liquid or cream products with them. I tried to apply my liquid foundation with it. Pros : the brush didn’t look that dirty afterwards. Cons : although I managed to blend it, it took me a while so it would probably work much better with powder foundations.
Wayne Goss #14
Now I enter Heaven territory. I know this kind of brushes may not be for everyone, they are not dense and not that controllable but I absolutely love it!
Wayne here comes up with fun hair and a super fun shape. A bit hit for me.
One of my HG blush brushes is the Tanseido YSC 17, this WG is very close in terms of functionality. I don’t only use it for powder but also for pigmented blushes. Work it in a spiral motion until I get the graduation and intensity that I want. Of course the Tanseido white goat are softer but not that much! I added the Suqqu cheek for you to see the size difference.
Wayne Goss #15
This is the fan that I think I will use the most amongst my little fan collection. It also matches my hair so nicely that I am thinking of also using it to hold my hair up in a bun 🙂
It is denser than the Hakuhodo J4004, not much but enough to make it more controllable, it also has more surface to work with. The RM fan is less flexible in comparison, thinner. The Paula Dorf is a wild boy (when you try to use it, the bristles don’t really follow a pattern and run uncontrollably in every direction…) therefore there is not much I can do with that one and doesn’t get much use, I feel like its flexibility is more like an on or off and that doesn’t happen with the others.
Wayne Goss #16
It’s a dense brush, an efficient blender and you will see that I have quite a few supercharged blenders like this one. The reason is that I love to work with dense eyebrushes (squirrel) but then of course sometimes I am surprised by the pigmentation and need full power with the blending to quickly correct my mess. Also sometimes I think I can pull off a med smokey eye to work… then I realise that I was too optimistic and I need some help to tone down the intensity. So either I use them to blend (with the purpose of toning down a too heavy eye) or just simply to blend the edges or the application softly. It’s also appropriate to apply a base color all over the lid.
Very soft, just like the white Hakuhodos but a bit more flexible which is even better.
The Evgeny is not as dense and this is better if you want a softer blending in the surface but there is nothing you can do with the Evgeny that you can’t do with the Wayne… furthermore, the Wayne brushes you can use them with liquids too (concealer, etc) so they will fit more purposes than black goat or squirrel brushes and since they are darker than the white, you won’t be as much bothered by them and they won’t be needing such a regular wash.
Wayne Goss #17
Another one that is soft and nicely bundled.
It has more flexibility and thickness than the Hakuhodo B532. I would say it’s more like the Hakuhodo Kokutan M in terms of flexibility and behaviour. I love them all so it’s difficult to say if you need one better than another at this point. They are all fantastic for base color and either the white options or the WG 17 are ok with liquid products.
The Mac 239 and Hakuhodo J220G are here for size comparison purposes.
Wayne Goss #18
This one looks like pine or canadian squirrel but it isn’t. I have only use it once but it was much more promising that I thought.
I applied this morning some dark shadow on the mobile lid with the Mac 239 and on the other eye with the WG18 just for testing purposes.
I found out that in comparison to the Mac 239:
- the WG18 applies more evenly, where with the Mac 239 I have darker little zones that I need to blend out… = +1 point for the WG.
- the WG18 is softer +1 point for the WG
- the WG is more flexible and allows me more control. +1 point for the WG
Now if you want the softness of a squirrel brush, you have to take a squirrel brush because when you use it perpendicular you feel it’s not. For some this will be a problem, since I will never use this brush perpendicular, I am really deeply loving it and this will be no problem for me. I use a Mac 239 very very often but I will use this instead since it’s softer and I find it more efficient.
By the way, the Jane Iredale Chisel Shader I have here is really nice. I have truly been surprised by how even and nicely bundled it is. I paid peanuts for it on BeautyBridge.com because it was being stopped on their website or discontinued or just on sale ? I don’t know, but if that is the case it is sad. Now I don’t see it anymore on the beautybridge website but I think it’s still available on others.
The Piccasso is not a brush I enjoy at all, too thin and too scratchy.
The Zoeva is nicely bundled and shaped but the softness is not enough for me to use it.
I didn’t have time to compare it with others but if you have questions, please leave them here and I will get back to you.
Wayne Goss #19
A crease brush, a fantastic one. I consider it fantastic because the application is even, pleasant and fool-proof. I applied a dark shade in the crease and I had no corrections to do at all, the edges were naturally blended as I applied. It’s actually a softer version of the Paula Dorf crease, a bit less thick but works the same way.
I first knew about the Royal and Langnickel thanks to sugarpuffandfluff videos, if you are in a budget, this brush is really amazing for its price. Of course not as soft as Hakuhodo or Wayne’s squirrel crease brushes but still, softer than Nars squirrel or Trish McEvoy squirrel crease brushes. The Mac 226 is here just for reference but it is too rough for me.
If you have any questions about these crease brushes, please let me know in the comments, I have only the Wayne brushes since Friday and could only use them twice, that is not enough for a very clear comparison to all these competitors 🙂 I think that the ones I will reach for the most are actually the WG 19, the Paula Dorf and the RM, the Tom Ford I use it but try to reserve it a bit since it’s much more expensive.
In comparison to the WG 19, the TF 13 is firmer, not as easy to use with darker crease colors for me because it will bring more intensity to them.
Too rough for me : the Trish McEvoy 29, the Mac 226.
Very fool-proof : WG19 (that’s a huge benefit, it’s amazing), PD sheer crease, RL BC430, Nars 13 (but the Nars is in the verge of really getting too rough…), the CT is nice and soft but it covers more surface than the WG and since the surface is flat, it doesn’t offer the same diffused application. The Sephora is not bad at all (it’s not in verge of getting too rough but not far away).
Softer : the RM but the application is more directional, also the WG 04 is softer but that is normal.
By the way, as I speak the Paula Dorf sheer crease is available on their Paula Dorf website!
Wayne Goss #20
Very tapered but unlike the Chikuhodo Z-10 you can actually work with the tip.
The Chikuhodo Z-10 is a bit too flexible to allow precise control but this WG 20 since it has a blend of squirrel and goat does the job very nicely and precisely. That makes it less soft than the Z-10 or the Suqqu S but if you don’t mind that (I don’t) you will get more use out of it. I like to darken the bottom lash line with just powder application but not easy to keep it office appropriate, the Suqqu S applies a bit too thick although it’s a really great brush. I can manage office appropriate with the WG #20.
The Hakuhodo G5520 was my HG for a long while, now it’s becoming a bit too rough because my eyes are tired and my skin feels really sensitive. I try to not use the Hakuhodo G5520 or B533 when I am like that, the WG 20 is softer than these two but less soft than pure squirrel brushes. You definitely feel that there is a blend because that’s also the reason why the shape remains so much tapered and controllable.
My fav brushes here are the Chanel 24 (but it is discontinued!), then the Koyudo C011 (which is as soft as squirrel but since it’s white it gets dirty every day and it’s a pain). Although it’s too soon for the final verdict, following to yesterday’s application, the WG 20 is joining the top of the list.
The Koyudo BP039 when used sideways and perpendicularly it is a fantastic smudger. It’s a flat brush (in the pic it is placed sideways), it’s the same material than the little purple Hakuhodo brush, it’s Tamage, very soft and firm, you can press harder without hurting your skin. It is as soft as squirrel but often packed for more density and firmness. I don’t really like it for laydown brushes but I love it for smudging.
Again if you have questions about the other brushes you are welcome to leave me your comments.
Zoeva, Sigma, Mac are really too rough for me, they irritate my eyes.
The Hakuhodo G5514 and G5515 are soft enough, they are nice brushes but I need to wash them more often than darker ones.
The Burberry is soft and very pleasant, you can nicely smoke out a dark shadow in the bottom lashline (it is small enough for that) but it’s more difficult to pack on color. It’s the only Burberry brush that I love from the brand.
I posted this pic on Instagram and I was happily surprised that I received a few very nice comments 😀 therefore I will share what the products are.
For this look I used only Wayne’s brushes, my conclusion is that they are super worth it, I could speak more about them but I think they speak for themselves, they are different, sexy, soft, interesting and versatile. When you are a brush collector and you think you have it or have seen it all, until you get these, you don’t.
This is on my face, quite a lot huh … I applied all that in that order :
- Laura Mercier Repair creme (very rich, only for very dry or special skin)
- By Terry Serum cellularose (will try to review these, I have and love them all…I need some weapons to fight my skin ageing process and I feel like it helps a bit, I am 43 in April and so far did not went to get any extra help, I might, who knows… I have deep wrinkles and fine lines, the serums help to make the skin look smoother but it won’t erase the wrinkles! I apply them all over the face underneath the foundation)
- Suqqu foundation (it’s a discontinued one, I finished my Ellis Faas so I am using up the ones that I can) I used the WG#13 to apply it, it took me a while so I prefer the WG#01. I don’t apply a heavy layer of foundation and coverage but that’s just how I prefer it).
- Tom Ford eye base (for me it’s the best)
- Tom Ford Bronzer in Terra (Yes still loving that one… I apply it very lightly before contour) I applied it with the WG #12.
- RMK MT-08 for contour, applied with the WG #12.
- Anna Sui #400 (love that one to pieces) Applied with the WG#14.
- Cle de Peau (I prefer golden highlighters so enjoying this but not using it often), applied with the fan, went a bit all over but anyway I wasn’t trying to control it…
- Chanel Bois de Rose lipliner (just to even up the lip color)
- Addiction Tuxedo Moon (major dips, very neutral palette with a twist, super easy to wear either for soft or dramatic looks), used the #17 to apply the base, then the #18 on the mobile lid. I used the #19 to apply the brown in the crease – love it because I did not had to bring any corrections at all. I used the #20 to apply black in the outer v and brown and black in the bottom lashline, then blended everything with the #16.
- Sisley 02 lip balm twist thing (just to add some color and plump)
- Bobbi Brown Jet eyeliner (any black liner will do… I just added this very close to the upper lash line and in the waterline, there is no pencil eyeliner in the bottom lashline, there is just powder applied with the WG#20!)
- RMK extra deep W mascara
- Sisley twisty thing in 01, it’s just a beige that I applied on top of the first one to give my lips more shine and sparkly finish and tone down the pink.
Please have a look at these videos for more info :
I will link more in the future.
Just a little important note : I also receive many emails with questions but I am so sorry I am really behind to answer you because of my work changes that happened these past weeks. Hopefully it will calm down soon. If you don’t hear about me, it’s not because I am getting less interested, I am just super busy trying to cope with my double-life (well, work and blog!).
I have been using the brushes for a few days now and wanted to update you.
The crease 19 is absolutely a must-have, I have been playing with stronger, sheerer and any type of powder shadows, I never ever had to correct/remove or tone down the application, you can build it up slowly until it gets the intensity you really want and the edges could not be any better diffused.
The pencil 20 is actually like a pencil with powder at the tip, so precise, controllable. It has enough firmness to draw a line along the lash line without going too far down, without having to go 300 times along the lashline to get the intensity you need, less movements, less friction. Wonderful. Beginners will be thrilled, professionals will be in trouble when they will have to switch to something else. It’s only when you go back that you realize the potential of what you have in your hands.
I had issued a search warrant for a Mac 239 dupe, the 18 flat lay down has actually replied to my call. It’s not white, not that it matters at all, it’s more flexible than the Mac 239, similar size and usage, I find it is more efficient for me with the products I use with it (often very dark) because the edges are more diffused, the application is easier, more pleasant and I am not compromising on efficiency.
The 16 and 17 are just amazing brushes, I can’t find anything bad to say about them. Blending with the 16 is a dream, applying the base color with the 17 is super easy, doesn’t retain product on the brush, just glides and deposits what I want where I want.
I cannot believe how easy to use they are, any beginner will be amazed, if you need your first set, go with this, you’ll have everything you need. The professionals will also adore them, they are not that cheap but they are worth their price for sure. I still love the first eye brushes (squirrel) that Wayne released (specially the 03 and 06) but this set is truly useful and mandatory.
I’m still thinking that the 14 is my fav, the most unique of them. If you had to start with only one, I think the 11 is the one to start with due to the versatility if offers.
All of them are wonderful brushes, I can only recommend you to splurge, you will not only be supporting Wayne but you will be enjoying the brushes!
If you get them, let us know if and how you like them 🙂